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I have a Samsung DLP HLR5067WAX/XAA. I have read the postings and am not quite clear on the symptoms of the clicking, power surge sounds (I hear none of these). I had the light engine replaced about two years ago(under warranty) along with the color wheel and the lamp by a local authorized Samsung ...

latest update now the TV wont turn on and stay on. it chimes, lamp light blinks for a while, then resets itself. Ultimately, all 3 lights in the front flash (2 green and 1 red). The set is unplugged right now waiting for the lamp. cross your fingers! Don't forget to immediately reset the lamp hours.

Hi I was looking for that tv model HL-56767W and i didnt get any info. at all i tried to google it and no luck :? , so probably is not the correct tv model. hope this can help you. The OP does not have the correct model #. There needs to be another letter after SL, and only four numbers before the ...

Hi I was looking for that tv model HL-56767W and i didnt get any info. at all i tried to google it and no luck :? , so probably is not the correct tv model. hope this can help you. The OP does not have the correct model #. There needs to be another letter after SL, and only four numbers before the ...

Seemingly overnight my 67 is now dimmer than normal, almost unwatchable. I tried changing the brightness and contrast but it doesnt get much brighter. This is happening on all inputs into the TV. I noticed that before last week, i could see a white light shining onto my wall behind the TV but now t...

I bought this set new in December 2004 and it's been great. Over a year ago I noticed the picture was losing brightness and I compensated with adjustment but it slowly got worse. I bought a new Phillips bulb from DM about a year ago, hoping that was the problem but it didn't seem to help. It's cont...

you still think it's the lamp even though this happened practically overnight? How easy is it to replace the lamp. Could I who considers myself fairly handy, but with zero experience opening a tv figure it out? will the lamp come with replacement instructions? I've also heard the ballast might be a...

I have the exact same set. Though I experienced no green lines, I replaced the ballast and bulb and all is well.

Well, bad news for me. There are two connectors on the lamp ballast and the secondary (smaller) connector on the 16A is different than the one on my original lamp ballast. On the 16A, it is a 5 pin connector. On mine, it is a 3pin connector. So I assume that the 03A must be the 3 pin. Oh well, it w...

Let us know how it goes.

Both the alternate ballast and bulb are spec'd for your set. After the first few months of production, they changed the ballast and bulb ( I got that from going further into the "lofty" site of your first post). They got rid of the Osram designed ballast and bulbs. I have done a close visual compari...

What replacement lamp did you get the first time? My theory, is that your 135w ballast blew out your 120w bulb. Could be why they started putting in the 16A. Since you need a new bulb again, I would get the 16A ballast and the Phillips B bulb. The watt-ages should match, IMO. Go to Discount Merchant...

Whoaaa!!! Did you ever find a lofty price site. From the research I've done, the two different ballast numbers coincide with bulb wattage. One for a 135W and the other for 120W. The bulb you have is 120W, therefore I would assume you want the BP47-00016A and get it at a REASONABLE price here: http:/...

I experienced the same situation. I replaced the bulb but picture was still dark. Replaced the ballast and it was like having a brand new TV.

Since you are no doubt anxious to get your set fixed, order both the ballast and lamp. BUT, install the new ballast first. If it fires back up, you can return the bulb (even though there is a 20% restock charge) or keep for the future. I just yesterday installed a new ballast after having replaced t...

I'm almost certain it's the ballast, ...and you were RIGHT! In fact, I now have deeper contrast and black levels than I EVER had since day one of ownership. I.E...before, in Movie mode, I would have to max the contrast out to 100, and even then it was a bit milky. Now, I've got it down to 75...and ...

Just ordered ballast from DM. Went with my gut since not that exensive.

Kent, the lamp has nothing to do with the coloration, only the intensity of the picture. A coloration problem may be something else all together. If you're saying it's dark AND blue, you might have a combination of problems. The firs thing to really check out is that ballast though. There are a num...

Thanks for the input, Eddie. One thing I forgot to mention which may lend a hand. From day 1 with this set, it would take at least 30 seconds for the picture to normalize. It would start dark, then it would brighten but look blue, then a few seconds later would pop to normal, with more red. Since ne...

New to the forum. Hello! For over two years, my HLS 5686W performed flawlessly. Then about 6 mos ago, the picture would dim about 60 seconds after power on. Brightness settings had to be changed from mid 50s to low 70s. Then, about two months ago, picture would go to black and I got the three blinke...