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[tbird7792]

Hello everybody, I'm new here and did search the archives first for my problem with no luck. I learned some valuable info but not enough to diagnosis my problem.

I have a HL-R6167W that started acting up about a week ago. It started by not responding to the remote or side TV buttons after being on for say 20 minutes or so. It was also taking longer and longer for the lamp to start up and show the picture. Although I know you're not suppose to, I started unplugging it from the outlet to turn it off since it would not respond to remote or the buttons on side of the tv. After about 30 minutes it would "reset" or something and would turn on after being plugged back in, I could watch it for hrs but it would just stop responding to TV remote commands and buttons, as I said previously.

Then after few times of using the plug in and out method, all three lights on the front would light up BUT NOT BLINK. I bought the TV it in 05 and had never replaced the bulb so figured it couldn't hurt to do so and started there. Got the bulb today (a phillips from DM) and replaced it but all three lights are still on but not blinking. They will stay lit as long as the set is plugged in but I can no longer get the TV to turn on or access any of the menus, etc...

So I opened it up further today to get more info and none of the fans are running while plugged in with the three solid lights on. I hear one soft click but it does not appear or sound to be coming from the ballast. Sounds like it coming from the left side when viewed from behind (side opposite the power supply and ballast).

I did disconnect the blue and brown leads going to the ballast and used a voltmeter and got essentially no Volts DC (maybe .03-.5 Vdc). I tested the power supply further by reading the board and testing where the multi white and grey leads connect. I only got the 33Vdc and 5 Vdc readings from "top" connector with the two prongs per line, none of the ones that indicated 12Vdc put out anything. I also tested the "bottom" connector with the single prongs and got 5 Vdc, 12 Vdc & 33 Vdc readings as indicated. I hope this is clear to someone (I'm a mechanical engineer who failed his electrical courses miserably in college).

Is is possible only the low voltage is working and not the high voltage (320-380 Vdc) from the power supply? Or are there some other permissible required before the high voltage is passed to the ballast?

Please help! I have a party already planned this weekend to watch UFC 100 and it doesn't look good!

Thank you.

[Angel]

Have you checked if you have any inflated capacitors on the power supply board? Normally this leads to your symptoms.

[tbird7792]

No, I didn't specifically look for inflated capacitors. I did remove the power supply last night and give it a once over for cold solders or obvious signs of being fried. I will pull it again tonight and look. Stupid question, I guess, but would they just appear swollen from the top, bottom or sides, right?

Is the three lights continuously on without blinking a specific fault code of anything, like how is they are blinking is supposedly the lamp ?

Thanks for responding.

[Angel]

They're usually swollen from the top.

Actually I checked your manual before I posted, and there is no code of three leds ON.

[tbird7792]

Sorry for the delay. I checked the caps last night and none of the them are inflated or visibly swollen. I pulled all the connectors from the power supply (except for 120Vac in) and then removed the power supply itself from the TV and checked the outputs again. I can definitely say there is no 320 to 380 Vdc at the ballast output connection and some of the 12Vdc outs are reading like 9Vdc, etc similar to my first post.

So should the output to the ballast be 320 to 380 Vdc at all times once its plugged in? Is it safe to say the power supply is shot and needs replacement?

[Angel]

Could you please post some pictures of how are you measuring the voltage?

I think the power supply should receive a signal before output the 320/380 Vdc, so it's possible that the output to the ballast wasn't 320/380 Vdc all the time. Let me investigate about it...

[tbird7792]

Thanks for all your input NEhelp. I've been out of town and have to leave again this weekend. So I will try to post pictures when I get back next week.

Basically though, I'm using a fluke multimeter set to Dvc. I disconnected the three connectors - the two pin connector labeled "to ballast", and the other two larger connectors (maybe 12 and 24 pins?), then plugged the TV main power back in. I used the multimeter's black and red leads to measure voltage from the various pins and comparing to the labeled voltage outputs listed near each pin.

Hope that description helps but I'll try to post pictures next week Monday or Tues.

Thanks again. I can't wait to get my samsung dlp up and running again! I really did love this TV.....

[AlanfUp]

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