alcatel mobile phone reviews

fixyourdlpblog · Post by **fixyourdlpblog** » Thu Mar 12, 2009 11:37 pm

At 2009.02.22 00:35, Howard Leadley said:

I have been working on some Samsung DLP’s and I am not a factory trained tech. but I have found several problems with these units. Correctly insert the DLP bulb door, also rock the reset switch back and forth several times to make sure it moves correctly, then if all else fails if you can, I could had extra Balasts for testing exchange and yes I know You most likely will not have one but what can I say,

. Next thing is power board thats wired to balast, have a nice day.
Later Howard

artohorn · Post by **artohorn** » Sat Apr 04, 2009 1:53 am

My tv was shutting off and the 3 lights started blinking ,I checked my manual and it said It was the lamp that was bad ,went on google and found a place to buy it.I receive it and did all the steps from the video I found on google ,after doing proper installation ,tv will not turn on ,I was upset because I thought I just bought a bad lamp.I called them up and after trouble shooting they informed me that it could be the ballast because, I heard a clicking sound like something trying to turn on on my tv. My question is how can I know if my ballast is bad? I will keep a check on this forum to see if anybody can help me Thank You, sinceraly Arto Horn

Angel · Post by **Angel** » Sat Apr 04, 2009 2:14 am

It most definitely sounds to be the ballast. The ballast is a board that amplifies the power of the electrical source in order to reach the neccessary voltage to turn on the lamp. When the ballast is malfunctioning you will hear a clicking sound, this is because cannot amplify to the appropriate wattage for the brand new lamp.

Hope this helps

Jake · Post by **Jake** » Tue Apr 07, 2009 8:01 pm

Yeaaaaah!

I say that your ballast is not working properly...I can say that because of the constant clicking that your TV is doing.

The good news about buying a new lamp...is that you shouldnt have any problems with the lamp. Basically you cant worry about your lamp for the next few years...

joec999 · Post by **joec999** » Sun Apr 12, 2009 3:40 pm

Mine did the same thing after replacing the lamp. I forgot to install the lamp door that actuates the safety switch and prevents the unit from powering up.

mdaller · Post by **mdaller** » Sat Apr 25, 2009 12:20 am

I think I may have this same problem with the ballast but wanted to clarify. If I unplug the TV and replug it in and hit the power button, I hear something spin up (color wheel?) and a few clicks followed by a continuous clicking that is fairly quiet compared to the first clicks. The "lamp" light flashes on the front, but no change in the screen. It continues like this for maybe 30 seconds (faint clicking the whole time), then stops. This repeats two more times and then I get the 3 flashing words on the front that indicate a bad bulb.

The TV is a HL-R6168W. The whole DLP engine (including the bulb) was replaced less than two months ago because the left 3 or 4 inches of the of the screen went dark.

Thanks!

lcbc4u · Post by **lcbc4u** » Mon May 25, 2009 7:19 pm

can your ballast go bad just by putting a new lamp in? Old lamp was old but working with bad colors change lamp and know 3 lights lit up upon install..followed direction real simple ..is there a rest button for dpl?

Jake · Post by **Jake** » Tue May 26, 2009 2:21 pm

mdaller wrote:I think I may have this same problem with the ballast but wanted to clarify. If I unplug the TV and replug it in and hit the power button, I hear something spin up (color wheel?) and a few clicks followed by a continuous clicking that is fairly quiet compared to the first clicks. The "lamp" light flashes on the front, but no change in the screen. It continues like this for maybe 30 seconds (faint clicking the whole time), then stops. This repeats two more times and then I get the 3 flashing words on the front that indicate a bad bulb.

The TV is a HL-R6168W. The whole DLP engine (including the bulb) was replaced less than two months ago because the left 3 or 4 inches of the of the screen went dark.

Thanks!

About the sniping sounds....does it sound like grinding, whirling or buzzing???? If it sound just like a regular high speed spin, there's no problem that your color wheel. If it give you any other weird spinning sound that would be the color wheel that is not working properly.

Regarding the clicking sounds, if the clicking is constant the problem would be the ballast D:
For what i know the light engine doesn't include the ballast...most probably you have to change the ballast D:

lcbc4u
Posted: Mon May 25, 2009 11:19 am
Reply with quote
can your ballast go bad just by putting a new lamp in? Old lamp was old but working with bad colors change lamp and know 3 lights lit up upon install..followed direction real simple ..is there a rest button for dpl?

Well, it all depends on what lamp you put. The wattage of the lamp and the ballast.

When you put the new lamp and its not working...but you put the old one and works. we have 2 options...
1 New lamp doesn't work
2 Ballast is too weak to ignite the lamp.

mdaller · Post by **mdaller** » Sat May 30, 2009 2:18 pm

Jake,

Thanks. The spin up sounds normal. The ballast is physically on the rack (DLP Engine) that the service company changed out in Feb. They came back, changed the ballast and tested it on a new bulb and the "old" bulb (280 hrs usage). Worked fine on both so they left the "old" bulb in. Watched one movie and the next day I was back to the 3 flashing lights. I swaped bulbs and was able to watch another movie. Again, the next day I had 3 flashing lights. Now the warranty company and service company are at odds over payment so I can't get any answers from them. Any thoughts?

CraigDLP50 · Post by **CraigDLP50** » Tue Jun 23, 2009 12:42 am

I replaced my lamp and ballast because my DLP HLT5075S turns off by itself while I'm
watching it. The TV would go off, the red standby light would blink and I would hear
a clicking sound like the ballast is trying to fire the lamp (~4k hours on it). It may do
this for 5 minutes or 5 hours but eventually will come back on for an indeterminate amount
of time before is goes through the same routine. Replacing the lamp and ballast did not
solve the problem and I have yet to find anyone with a solution.

Jake, you seem to be knowledgeable, any recommendations?

Rivers85 · Post by **Rivers85** » Mon Aug 10, 2009 6:04 pm

//It's a long shot

Try checking the lamp cables for continuity. According to projector lamp experts.com, during operation the entire lamp module is exposed to extreme temperatures, the wear-and-tear of connectors (a component of the plastic housing) can influence the stability of the lamp's electrical supply. If this is the case then a new set of lamp connectors will resolve the problem.

//If it's the cables

Then compare them to the ones that are sold by D-M because they have different shapes, here is the link: https://www.discount-merchant.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=connectors

bspit · Post by **bspit** » Sun Oct 11, 2009 3:45 am

HLP4674w
- bulb replaced - still doesn't work
- ballast replaced - still doesn't work
- Symptoms: 3 lights flashing after cycling through 3 times (ballast clicks, whirring or humming sound X 3), no sound at all

Could the "bad ballast" have ruined my new bulb?
What's the next likely component that is bad?
Can a bulb be tested?

zagloba · Post by **zagloba** » Fri Oct 23, 2009 12:12 am

I have the exact problem as bspit. TV is a bit over 5-years old (HLP6163WX). Replaced lamp about two years ago and it has worked fine since. Got the lamp light again so I replaced it. Getting sound but no pic. Replaced ballast, same thing. There are no clicking noises or anything. Just the three cycles and the three blinking lights. Thinking about buying a color wheel or dmd board, but how can I determine which it is? Already frustrated.

LovnHDTV · Post by **LovnHDTV** » Thu Oct 29, 2009 5:20 pm

Hi Guys, thanks for providing this forum if for nothing else a bit of comfort and great info.

I have an HL-5656W, Samsung

The pic was coming on dark and then would get brighter, then one day pop and out went the pic. But after the pop there was and is a buzzing sound/crackling sound.

I thought it was the lamp and pulled it, visual inspection shows no black marks or filiment breakage? Is that normal? And I ordered one but reinstalled the old one and tricked the safety to see if I could see anything else, and right below the bulb appears to be some flashing and I could swear that is where the buzzing noise is coming from. I don't mind putting the new bulb in when I get it but I don't want to install it and have it get blown again

because of another problem.

Any Help is much appreciated,

Thanks,

John

mcastleman · Post by **mcastleman** » Wed Nov 11, 2009 2:56 pm

ok I am new to the board but can someone.... anyone tell me how to replace the ballast on my HLS5086w unit? I have the same symptoms with a lite clicking sound coming from the unit after replacing the lamp... ( blown 100 bucks) please any help would be great. and also where in the heck can I get one Cheap!!!???

Mike

Short76 · Post by **Short76** » Fri Dec 04, 2009 4:48 am

I have a Samsung DLP model HLR-4667W, just replaced the lamp. The original Lamp code was BP96-00823A (O), The vendor I purchased the new lamp from shipped me BP96-01073A. Some forums say when you upgrade to the newer model lamp you need to replace the ballast. I hear a clicking noise in the back of the unit. When I Power on the unit the LAMP LED blinks for sometime then all three LEDs blink. The unit will not turn off I had to unplug it. Before buying another lamp and a ballast if they are still available how can I determine it the ballast and not the power supply is the problem, or how can I determine the problem before investing in another lamp? I'm not able to find a parts list or schematics on Samsung's site.

AiT · Post by **AiT** » Sun Dec 06, 2009 2:23 am

Short76,

The BP96-01073A, the BP96-00826A, and the BP96-00823A are interchangeable, so that it's an issue here.

Apart from having the right diagnostic tools, there really isn't an easy way of testing the ballast in your home, although, it is fairly common in older Samsungs to see the ballast and lamp fail at the same time. The ballasts aren't too expensive and in most cases, if you haven't replaced yours, you will at one point. Good thing installation is pretty straight forward with those.

BTW, the Samsungs hardly have power supply issues...usually it's a defective ballast.

Short76 · Post by **Short76** » Mon Dec 07, 2009 8:48 pm

I was looking at power because my color wheel is shattered. What would cause the Color wheel to shatter and would a defective color wheel cause the 3 LEDS on the front to blink. It looks like I need a new color wheel, Ballast, and lamp. I'm not confident that will resolve all my issues. I'm debateing if to invest the money in repairing this unit or buy a new flatscreen. Your thoughts

rbrophy52 · Post by **rbrophy52** » Wed Jan 13, 2010 3:11 am

It sounds as if this lamp out, ballast bad and color wheel shattering are all very common with these Samsungs. I am sufferin through the same woes. I have replaced everything and the unit worked fine for a couple weeks but now the lamp will not turn on. I do not get the clicking sound out of the ballast. I am getting 330vdc to the ballast but on the downstream side to the lamp only 7.6vdc. Does anyone know what the output value of the ballast should be?

One additional thought. If the thermostat just above the lamp goes bad, would the tv show the same symptoms?

RB.

Moofus12 · Post by **Moofus12** » Sat Jan 16, 2010 4:58 am

I have the same problem - replaced color wheel, lamp and ballast, but lamp does not come on. I have checked all connections. Did you get any resolution?

rbrophy52 · Post by **rbrophy52** » Sat Jan 16, 2010 11:03 am

No I have not learned anything new about this. I have a difficult time thinking that at least one person on this forum has hasn't figured out the problem though. It just seems to be such a common occurance that someone should have figured it out by now. If you know of the location of a schematic, I could probably figure it out myself. Good luck. RB.

Moofus12 wrote:I have the same problem - replaced color wheel, lamp and ballast, but lamp does not come on. I have checked all connections. Did you get any resolution?

johnp1732 · Post by **johnp1732** » Wed Jan 27, 2010 4:43 pm

I'm experiencing the same problem. But I can get it to work -- kind of.

HLR6167w
Color wheel was replaced, and then the new one started grinding.

Replaced Color wheel (just the wheel, not the housing entirely), and lamp.

Put TV back together, and tv doesn't start. Just clicks. Lamp doesn't fire, wheel doesn't spin.

Ok, now check this out:
Remove the color wheel housing with wheel inside.
Put light engine portion of tv back in, and secure like you're going to turn the tv on - because you're going to!
Connect the color wheel wires (brown and the blue/white) correctly (kind of tight fit for large fingers), but be very careful to not put anything near the wheel for this testing.
Plug in power cable.

I did that, and i had 2 problems.
1: I didn't need to hit the button on the front of the tv to turn it on, it just did it by itself.
2: the wheel spins on full, and the lamp fires, and I get a b&w image on the tv that says 'check input cable'. (Which makes sense since there's no input wires connected.)

So, 2 questions now:
1. What did I do to make the tv turn on by itself.
2. Is it so tight when the color wheel is in place that the wheel can't turn, or is it because of the way the new wheel is (air and such) and i didn't move the jumper. The problem with this is that the wheel turns when it's not in place, but doesn't when it is installed.

speaking of the jumper, I have yet to see it at all. Can anyone give directions as to where to find it? Is it near the DVI cable that connects to the dnd area, do I need to remove the connections panel?

Would like to get this working before Super Bowl, can't get a new style/tech right now.

rbrophy52 · Post by **rbrophy52** » Thu Jan 28, 2010 4:14 pm

I would very much like to have Eddie weigh in on this. He has seen all the exchanges and most likely is familiar with the solution.

johnp1732 wrote:I'm experiencing the same problem. But I can get it to work -- kind of.

HLR6167w
Color wheel was replaced, and then the new one started grinding.

Replaced Color wheel (just the wheel, not the housing entirely), and lamp.

Put TV back together, and tv doesn't start. Just clicks. Lamp doesn't fire, wheel doesn't spin.

Ok, now check this out:
Remove the color wheel housing with wheel inside.
Put light engine portion of tv back in, and secure like you're going to turn the tv on - because you're going to!
Connect the color wheel wires (brown and the blue/white) correctly (kind of tight fit for large fingers), but be very careful to not put anything near the wheel for this testing.
Plug in power cable.

I did that, and i had 2 problems.
1: I didn't need to hit the button on the front of the tv to turn it on, it just did it by itself.
2: the wheel spins on full, and the lamp fires, and I get a b&w image on the tv that says 'check input cable'. (Which makes sense since there's no input wires connected.)

So, 2 questions now:
1. What did I do to make the tv turn on by itself.
2. Is it so tight when the color wheel is in place that the wheel can't turn, or is it because of the way the new wheel is (air and such) and i didn't move the jumper. The problem with this is that the wheel turns when it's not in place, but doesn't when it is installed.

speaking of the jumper, I have yet to see it at all. Can anyone give directions as to where to find it? Is it near the DVI cable that connects to the dnd area, do I need to remove the connections panel?

Would like to get this working before Super Bowl, can't get a new style/tech right now.

Eddie · Post by **Eddie** » Fri Jan 29, 2010 6:52 pm

This might be a silly question, but did you check your component or composite cables to make sure those are plugged in properly at both the input and output?

We were having color problems on my in-law's TV set and I immediately thought it was the color wheel, or something like that. Turns out the cable was loose in the back.

---

Regarding the other query,

The temperature sensor on the television could tell the TV that it's overheating causing the fan to come on but the TV to not fire the lamp. That's a possibility. The sensor could be bad, or faulty.

If it's not turning on, I also recommend you check that EVERYTHING is closed up and that little blue switch is engaged. So many times people come to me saying their TV doesn't turn on after they've replaced X part on their DLP. I ask did they close the lamp door? They say "no," try it again with the door closed, and voila! It's working again. That doesn't sound like its the case, but the simplest solutions should be checked and rechecked, because it doesn't hurt anything to double check to make sure the lamp is seated properly and wired in correctly, the cables are all intact and plugged in right, and the set is closed up. You'd be surprised how many people don't know about that little blue switch or forget to close it!

johnp1732 · Post by **johnp1732** » Fri Jan 29, 2010 8:12 pm

This might be a silly question, but did you check your component or composite cables to make sure those are plugged in properly at both the input and output?

We were having color problems on my in-law's TV set and I immediately thought it was the color wheel, or something like that. Turns out the cable was loose in the back.

The DVI like cable that connects from the light platform to the digital board? Plugged in and tight.

to test out the tv, (especially when the color wheel was out), I would get a long piece of tape to tape the switch down.
Which item is the sensor? Is that easily found?

rbrophy52 · Post by **rbrophy52** » Fri Jan 29, 2010 10:03 pm

Good responses from both Eddie and Mike and thank you both. I have the little blue swith taped in the downward position and stll have nothing. I have ordered a new ballast although the current one has less than two hours on it. This due to having only 5.65vdc measured at the output to the lamp. I will let you know how this turns out. RB.

johnp1732 wrote:
This might be a silly question, but did you check your component or composite cables to make sure those are plugged in properly at both the input and output?

We were having color problems on my in-law's TV set and I immediately thought it was the color wheel, or something like that. Turns out the cable was loose in the back.
The DVI like cable that connects from the light platform to the digital board? Plugged in and tight.

to test out the tv, (especially when the color wheel was out), I would get a long piece of tape to tape the switch down.
Which item is the sensor? Is that easily found?

ovadoggvo · Post by **ovadoggvo** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 12:47 am

rbrophy52,
I have finally made my way around to this thread!

To me it seems like a defective Digital Board and I will explain why... But first of all, your ballast should not go bad. How are you measuring the voltage coming out? This is impossible using a standard multimeter! The startup voltage on the ballast is 15KV! It will damage your multimeter or send it way out of calibration if you try to measure Voltage output.

First I would test voltage coming into your ballast at time of booting up your TV... The voltage there should be around ~380VDC

Next, I would test the ballast by using the FORCE-ON method described here:
http://www.fixyourdlp.com/forum/viewtop ... 4005#p4005

Again, I'm not responsible for damages for misuse of this information!

Next.. I'm assuming your ballast is fine

, I would see if the color wheel connections are good. Did you buy a color wheel with housing or without? In this case, I would recommend the full housing which includes the RPM sensor board.

Finally... Here is a breakdown of the BASIC boot sequence of your TV:
1 - Power Supply ON (by Switch or Remote - Controlled by Digital Board containing DNIe Chip)
- Send 380VDC to Ballast (Ballast on Standby until Receives 5VDC Ignition from DMD)
- Boot DMD Board

2 - DMD Board ON (Waiting for Information)
- Waiting on OK from ColorWheel
- Waiting on OK from Temp Sensor

3 - Check Color Wheel RPM (If wheel speed is 5400RPM, Send OK to DMD)
- Sensor on Color Wheel housing gives OK to DMD - If PASS go to the next step
- Sensor on Color Wheel housing gives FAIL to DMD - Shut down TV (Lamp Light Only - Very deceiving)
***Color wheel has 2 cables - MOTOR (Variable Speed via Voltage Regulator) & SENSOR (Live RPM Sensor)

4 - Check TV Temperature (If Temperature is Below Threshold, Send OK to DMD)
- Standard electronic Thermometer (Live TEMP Sensor) - If PASS go to the next step
- Standard electronic Thermometer (Live TEMP Sensor) - If FAIL shut down TV (Temp Light Only)

5 - If DMD Board Receives OK on TEMP and CWRPM send 5VDC to Ballast for ignition
- Waiting on OK from ColorWheel - PASS
- Waiting on OK from Temp Sensor - PASS
- Send 5VDC to Ballast - Then Waiting for response

6 - Ballast Fire Up (which then turns the lamp "on")
- Ballast sends electronic pulse to DMD
- If PASS - Go to Next Step
- If FAIL - Shut Down TV (3 Lights Blinking)

7 - DMD Receives OK from BALLAST - Send VIDEO to screen

----------
A few other things to keep in mind that aren't in my flow chart...

Digital Board controls the digital functions of the TV (On, Off, Menu, Etc)
- Blinking Menu - MOST LIKELY bad Digital Board
- TV Turns on by itself when plugged in - MOST LIKELY bad Digital Board
- TV Won't Turn off or is non-responsive to buttons or remote - MOST LIKELY bad Digital Board

Digital Board is responsible for processing and descrambling the OSV (On-Screen VIDEO, does NOT include Menu System)
- Menu is OK and Video is bad, DMD Board is MOST LIKELY GOOD and Digital Board has bad DNIe Chip

**Here is where some technicians make a mistake... The Digital Board produces the on-screen menu, but it does so using a separate memory chip! It does not use the DNIe chip for menu functions! This is why we test the OSM (on-screen menu) to diagnose... Even though the Digital Board produces this menu, it does not process it or pass it through DNIe Chip.. DNIe chip is what converts the ANALOG video to DIGITAL with some enhancing, upconverting, etc. When we press menu and the menu shows up fine but video is scrambled, this means the DNIe chip or one of its related components is failing. The MENU Function are on a separate path to the DMD board and are not decompressed, compressed, or decoded in any way (Direct to Display).

DMD Board is responsible for ultimate video output
- TV is scrambled (lines or blackouts) - MOST LIKELY BAD DMD Board
- TV won't turn on and Color Wheel is GOOD, Temp sensor is GOOD, Ballast is GOOD, and TV won't power - DMD is not sending 5VDC out to Ballast ---- DMD is MOST LIKELY bad

----------

Follow that sequence and tell me where you think the TV is failing.

DISCLAIMER:
I use the word MOST LIKELY because I take no responsibility for mis-diagnosis! This is just a basic outline of the boot sequence on Samsung DLP TV's, Mitsubishi DLP TV's, RCA DLP TV's.

sciascr · Post by **sciascr** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 12:18 pm

Using your helpful hints, I have determined that the BP41-00041B digital board on my HLN-5065W!X/XXA is bad and needs to be replaced. I cannot find this board for purchase anywhere. Any suggestions?
Thanks.

ovadoggvo · Post by **ovadoggvo** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 9:25 pm

sciascr,
I would keep checking every week or two on Discount-Merchant's website to see if they get one instock. I've seen those digital boards come and go on there.. I think they sell them for under $100!! Which is a steal...

Other places want $300-500 for the board which is rediculous.

Good luck.

johnp1732 · Post by **johnp1732** » Thu Feb 18, 2010 7:30 pm

Finally fixed my tv with new colorwheel.

Put that thing in and it fired up with no problems.

Eddie · Post by **Eddie** » Thu Feb 18, 2010 9:50 pm

Sometimes that happens though when you purchase from a non-authorized company or purchase a non-OEM part. You've always got to check out the company you're dealing with and you're probably the first person to say dlp lamps express is decent. I personally don't trust any company that I can't call, or locate on Google Maps!

johnp1732 · Post by **johnp1732** » Mon Feb 22, 2010 6:10 pm

Two other things I had to do to fix my tv.

So, the new wheel is in, but the color is wrong for reds. It looks blocky, enlarged, and not as crisp.

Some searching on the web brought up that I needed to change some CCA #s and a color index value.
None of this information came from either Samsung parts or the other place.

so, i was able to find this information on the web to fix up my tv, and dang if it doesn't look sharper than when i first bought the tv:
(No warranty implied. not responsible for changes you make to your own tv. information presented as is. ymmv. Instructions do not change for elevation higher than 5000 feet.)

http://www.freelists.org/post/techassis ... eed-info,1

and

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/archive/ ... 19419.html

nucleus12 · Post by **nucleus12** » Tue Feb 23, 2010 11:15 pm

ok, so i'm not sure where to post this, as i am new here.

i have samsung HL-T4675s and one day screen just went black, and three lights on front started blinking. i read quite a bit about this problem on this website and bought a new lamp for it (high quality phillips). after i installed it nothing changed. then i read that it could be a weak ballast, so i ordered one of those and replaced. nothing. other than regular operation/fan noise, there's no loud buzzing so i don't think its the color wheel. (plus i can physically see its intact) and YES i've made sure the blue switch is down. i don't know what to do now, and am afraid to keep throwing money at this thing. please help!

just fyi, i plug it in, push power button, hear the normal 'click', followed by sound of it powering up, but no picture. it then shuts itself off, cycles a couple more times, and back to the three blinking lights.

so ONE additional question i wanted to add. is ANY noise coming from color wheel bad?

bigpaco34 · Post by **bigpaco34** » Wed Feb 24, 2010 2:27 am

I have a similar problem to others on this thread. My color wheel spins, the ballast clicks, and the lamp comes on but I never get an image on the screen and the tv turns it self off after several minutes. Once in a awhile I will hit the power button and it will work flawlessly until I turn it off and then the next time I try to turn it on it may or may not work (usually not). It is a Samsung HLR5667WAX/XAA. I purchased the set in 10/05 and replaced the lamp in 06/09. Problems began about a month ago. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

djynes · Post by **djynes** » Mon Mar 01, 2010 5:22 am

HEEEEEEEELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

have samsung HLN617w heard whining noise about three months ago then picture went out. replaced lamp tv picture was fine after but then there was a grinding noise that got louder as time passed then it stop working replaced lamp again but it would just turn on with no sound or picture click a few times then restart itself (lamp light was blinking the whole time) so i replaced the color wheel everything worked fine and cant remember when ive heard the tv that quiet .about 30 min later the picture went the sound stayed on for sbout 5 or so min then tv turned off and started up with the lamp led light blinking . when i tried to turn it off with remote or power button it wouldnt work i had to unplugg it to turn it off. when i plugged it in and turned it on it did the same thing i could hear the fan moving but not the color wheel so i took the lamp out and held the blue switch for the lamp door and noticed that the color wheel was not spining. could this be a faulty color wheel since it worked for an half an hour? or could i have put it in wrong ? i would gladly accept any hep thank you in advance!

Gman · Post by **Gman** » Fri Apr 09, 2010 11:56 am

ovadoggvo wrote:sciascr,
I would keep checking every week or two on Discount-Merchant's website to see if they get one instock. I've seen those digital boards come and go on there.. I think they sell them for under $100!! Which is a steal...

Other places want $300-500 for the board which is rediculous.

Good luck.

Ordered and received my BP41-00041B board from DM for $139.00. Installed and worked beautifully in my HLN437WX. Thanks to insightful troubleshooting.

Picture looks grainier than previous. Factory settings were set to orig replaced board. Can't tell if RF input is weak or replacement board is not quite to specs. I have direct feed from my cable. Will try to use cable box to see if there will be any improvements. Kids Wii input video looks fine which only matters at this time.

Also, Where can I get the previous board fixed. Thanks in advance.
Gman

mymy · Post by **mymy** » Thu Apr 15, 2010 2:03 pm

My new lamp worked for about 4 hours and now I have the same blinking lights and the TV on by itself. I tried the mute 182 and menu 182 but cna't get anything up on the screen. All is dark. Help! There are no strange sounds.

srjy2k2 · Post by **srjy2k2** » Sun Apr 18, 2010 6:00 pm

So ovadoggvo, in your boot sequence, if color wheel doesn't spin up, then lamp will never turn on? Can you watch color wheel without lamp in? (of course with lamp door switch engaged) Or are you lsitening for just the sound of it spinning? (high pitch warm up noise)

Ive got lamp never comming on, but less than a year old, no clicking from ballast, and lamp light flashing. Then maybe after a minute tv powers off and flashes 3 LEDS.

tdkbama · Post by **tdkbama** » Thu May 06, 2010 11:13 am

I fixed the 3 Blinking lights problem on my HLP5063W by trial and error.

I had the same loud clicking noise and found this and other forums which indicated the color wheel was the problem. Followed the same Youtube video instructions others have noted to replace the colorwheel in about 1.5 hrs - Thank You for that video!! After replacing it, I had no lamp power, just the "LAMP" indicator on the ON/OFF button blinking 3 times, then the "TIMER TEMP" red idicator stayed on.

So, I bought a new lamp, and tried that. No change - still 3 blinking indicators.

Noticed on some forum that another person fixed this problem by reconnecting the thin copper-colored ribbon cable - (the one without an end-connector) on the color wheel, rotating the end 180 degrees - in other words, remove the TV-end of that thin cable, rotate it so that it inserts into the slot with the bare portions facing the rear of the TV. I had inserted it backwards when installing the new color wheel.

Plugged it back in, held down the blue cover-switch, hit the on/off button and the thing came on!!! Go figure. I have no idea why that mattered, but it must be part of the power-on sequence.

Even though I didn't need to replace the lamp, I'm glad I did. The new one does look much better on-screen - much brighter, better resolution than the older original lamp. I'll keep the old one as a spare.

Hope this helps. Thanks to everyone who contributes to this forum. It sure saved a lot of time and money.

Dave

Bufordhog02 · Post by **Bufordhog02** » Tue May 11, 2010 5:36 pm

ovadoggvo wrote:rbrophy52,
I have finally made my way around to this thread!

To me it seems like a defective Digital Board and I will explain why... But first of all, your ballast should not go bad. How are you measuring the voltage coming out? This is impossible using a standard multimeter! The startup voltage on the ballast is 15KV! It will damage your multimeter or send it way out of calibration if you try to measure Voltage output.

First I would test voltage coming into your ballast at time of booting up your TV... The voltage there should be around ~380VDC

Next, I would test the ballast by using the FORCE-ON method described here:
http://www.fixyourdlp.com/forum/viewtop ... 4005#p4005

Again, I'm not responsible for damages for misuse of this information!

Next.. I'm assuming your ballast is fine , I would see if the color wheel connections are good. Did you buy a color wheel with housing or without? In this case, I would recommend the full housing which includes the RPM sensor board.

Finally... Here is a breakdown of the BASIC boot sequence of your TV:
1 - Power Supply ON (by Switch or Remote - Controlled by Digital Board containing DNIe Chip)
- Send 380VDC to Ballast (Ballast on Standby until Receives 5VDC Ignition from DMD)
- Boot DMD Board

2 - DMD Board ON (Waiting for Information)
- Waiting on OK from ColorWheel
- Waiting on OK from Temp Sensor

3 - Check Color Wheel RPM (If wheel speed is 5400RPM, Send OK to DMD)
- Sensor on Color Wheel housing gives OK to DMD - If PASS go to the next step
- Sensor on Color Wheel housing gives FAIL to DMD - Shut down TV (Lamp Light Only - Very deceiving)
***Color wheel has 2 cables - MOTOR (Variable Speed via Voltage Regulator) & SENSOR (Live RPM Sensor)

4 - Check TV Temperature (If Temperature is Below Threshold, Send OK to DMD)
- Standard electronic Thermometer (Live TEMP Sensor) - If PASS go to the next step
- Standard electronic Thermometer (Live TEMP Sensor) - If FAIL shut down TV (Temp Light Only)

5 - If DMD Board Receives OK on TEMP and CWRPM send 5VDC to Ballast for ignition
- Waiting on OK from ColorWheel - PASS
- Waiting on OK from Temp Sensor - PASS
- Send 5VDC to Ballast - Then Waiting for response

6 - Ballast Fire Up (which then turns the lamp "on")
- Ballast sends electronic pulse to DMD
- If PASS - Go to Next Step
- If FAIL - Shut Down TV (3 Lights Blinking)

7 - DMD Receives OK from BALLAST - Send VIDEO to screen

----------
A few other things to keep in mind that aren't in my flow chart...

Digital Board controls the digital functions of the TV (On, Off, Menu, Etc)
- Blinking Menu - MOST LIKELY bad Digital Board
- TV Turns on by itself when plugged in - MOST LIKELY bad Digital Board
- TV Won't Turn off or is non-responsive to buttons or remote - MOST LIKELY bad Digital Board

Digital Board is responsible for processing and descrambling the OSV (On-Screen VIDEO, does NOT include Menu System)
- Menu is OK and Video is bad, DMD Board is MOST LIKELY GOOD and Digital Board has bad DNIe Chip

**Here is where some technicians make a mistake... The Digital Board produces the on-screen menu, but it does so using a separate memory chip! It does not use the DNIe chip for menu functions! This is why we test the OSM (on-screen menu) to diagnose... Even though the Digital Board produces this menu, it does not process it or pass it through DNIe Chip.. DNIe chip is what converts the ANALOG video to DIGITAL with some enhancing, upconverting, etc. When we press menu and the menu shows up fine but video is scrambled, this means the DNIe chip or one of its related components is failing. The MENU Function are on a separate path to the DMD board and are not decompressed, compressed, or decoded in any way (Direct to Display).

DMD Board is responsible for ultimate video output
- TV is scrambled (lines or blackouts) - MOST LIKELY BAD DMD Board
- TV won't turn on and Color Wheel is GOOD, Temp sensor is GOOD, Ballast is GOOD, and TV won't power - DMD is not sending 5VDC out to Ballast ---- DMD is MOST LIKELY bad

----------

Follow that sequence and tell me where you think the TV is failing.

DISCLAIMER:
I use the word MOST LIKELY because I take no responsibility for mis-diagnosis! This is just a basic outline of the boot sequence on Samsung DLP TV's, Mitsubishi DLP TV's, RCA DLP TV's.

Bufordhog02 · Post by **Bufordhog02** » Wed May 12, 2010 8:24 pm

ovadoggvo wrote:rbrophy52,
I have finally made my way around to this thread!

To me it seems like a defective Digital Board and I will explain why... But first of all, your ballast should not go bad. How are you measuring the voltage coming out? This is impossible using a standard multimeter! The startup voltage on the ballast is 15KV! It will damage your multimeter or send it way out of calibration if you try to measure Voltage output.

First I would test voltage coming into your ballast at time of booting up your TV... The voltage there should be around ~380VDC

Next, I would test the ballast by using the FORCE-ON method described here:
http://www.fixyourdlp.com/forum/viewtop ... 4005#p4005

Again, I'm not responsible for damages for misuse of this information!

Next.. I'm assuming your ballast is fine , I would see if the color wheel connections are good. Did you buy a color wheel with housing or without? In this case, I would recommend the full housing which includes the RPM sensor board.

Finally... Here is a breakdown of the BASIC boot sequence of your TV:
1 - Power Supply ON (by Switch or Remote - Controlled by Digital Board containing DNIe Chip)
- Send 380VDC to Ballast (Ballast on Standby until Receives 5VDC Ignition from DMD)
- Boot DMD Board

2 - DMD Board ON (Waiting for Information)
- Waiting on OK from ColorWheel
- Waiting on OK from Temp Sensor

3 - Check Color Wheel RPM (If wheel speed is 5400RPM, Send OK to DMD)
- Sensor on Color Wheel housing gives OK to DMD - If PASS go to the next step
- Sensor on Color Wheel housing gives FAIL to DMD - Shut down TV (Lamp Light Only - Very deceiving)
***Color wheel has 2 cables - MOTOR (Variable Speed via Voltage Regulator) & SENSOR (Live RPM Sensor)

4 - Check TV Temperature (If Temperature is Below Threshold, Send OK to DMD)
- Standard electronic Thermometer (Live TEMP Sensor) - If PASS go to the next step
- Standard electronic Thermometer (Live TEMP Sensor) - If FAIL shut down TV (Temp Light Only)

5 - If DMD Board Receives OK on TEMP and CWRPM send 5VDC to Ballast for ignition
- Waiting on OK from ColorWheel - PASS
- Waiting on OK from Temp Sensor - PASS
- Send 5VDC to Ballast - Then Waiting for response

6 - Ballast Fire Up (which then turns the lamp "on")
- Ballast sends electronic pulse to DMD
- If PASS - Go to Next Step
- If FAIL - Shut Down TV (3 Lights Blinking)

7 - DMD Receives OK from BALLAST - Send VIDEO to screen

----------
A few other things to keep in mind that aren't in my flow chart...

Digital Board controls the digital functions of the TV (On, Off, Menu, Etc)
- Blinking Menu - MOST LIKELY bad Digital Board
- TV Turns on by itself when plugged in - MOST LIKELY bad Digital Board
- TV Won't Turn off or is non-responsive to buttons or remote - MOST LIKELY bad Digital Board

Digital Board is responsible for processing and descrambling the OSV (On-Screen VIDEO, does NOT include Menu System)
- Menu is OK and Video is bad, DMD Board is MOST LIKELY GOOD and Digital Board has bad DNIe Chip

**Here is where some technicians make a mistake... The Digital Board produces the on-screen menu, but it does so using a separate memory chip! It does not use the DNIe chip for menu functions! This is why we test the OSM (on-screen menu) to diagnose... Even though the Digital Board produces this menu, it does not process it or pass it through DNIe Chip.. DNIe chip is what converts the ANALOG video to DIGITAL with some enhancing, upconverting, etc. When we press menu and the menu shows up fine but video is scrambled, this means the DNIe chip or one of its related components is failing. The MENU Function are on a separate path to the DMD board and are not decompressed, compressed, or decoded in any way (Direct to Display).

DMD Board is responsible for ultimate video output
- TV is scrambled (lines or blackouts) - MOST LIKELY BAD DMD Board
- TV won't turn on and Color Wheel is GOOD, Temp sensor is GOOD, Ballast is GOOD, and TV won't power - DMD is not sending 5VDC out to Ballast ---- DMD is MOST LIKELY bad

----------

Follow that sequence and tell me where you think the TV is failing.

DISCLAIMER:
I use the word MOST LIKELY because I take no responsibility for mis-diagnosis! This is just a basic outline of the boot sequence on Samsung DLP TV's, Mitsubishi DLP TV's, RCA DLP TV's.

Where do we test for the for the 5vdc to from the DMD to the Ballast on a HL-S4676S?

cbrad · Post by **cbrad** » Fri May 14, 2010 8:30 pm

My HLS5687W stopped working, and lamp light on front of TV was flashing. I ordered a lamp and it still did the same thing. Thank you for all your posts because I saw that people often had to replace the ballast as well. I ordered a ballast, which was more time consuming to replace than replacing the lamp, but now my TV works again. Again, thanks. I couldnt have done it without you!

JerryLinn · Post by **JerryLinn** » Tue Jun 01, 2010 3:19 am

ovadoggvo,
I have read your advise to others re: Lamps that don't turn on, and tried to follow a logical sequence in fixing a Samsung 507WX; the lamp was new when I got it; so after reading this posting I replaced the ballast. I have printed and followed the boot sequence you describe and think that the set follows the sequence you describe.

At power on, the power to the ballast is 386VDC and the input to the ballast from the DMD is 4.5V. The color wheel looks OK when the lamp is removed and there is no noise coming from it. And, since the DMD delivers 4.5V it appears to have passed the color wheel test during boot up. The set come on for about 45 seconds and then shuts power down to the lamp and the 4.5v drops to 3.36v and then completely off (actually it does a bit of a dance: 4.5V, 3.78V, 1.2V, 3.36v, 1.2V, 4.5V and then off immediately). The set displays the menu OK and a picture for about 45 seconds (HDMI/DVI and PC inputs) before the power shuts off and I have 3-blinking lights -- with the temp light blinking red.

When I got the set from my son-in-law, he had replaced the lamp and my guess is that it is a DNGO lamp (that is hand written on the box in ink). Could a bad lamp give these symptoms? The picture displayed for 45 sec. is dim and I wonder if the set is starting to ramp up the voltage to the lamp when it shuts down? Is it possible that the temp sensor is shutting it down as tries to bring up the lamp output? (Both fans are running, so there is not a lack of fans to cool it.) Is there a way to bypass the temp sensor?

Any advise offered would be most appreciated. Don't want to put more $$ down a rat hole, but am willing to buy a Phillips lamp IF that is your recommendation.
Jerry

61snowrider · Post by **61snowrider** » Mon Jun 14, 2010 9:02 pm

Hey I got the same problem, Did the new ballast fix it?

mdaller wrote:I think I may have this same problem with the ballast but wanted to clarify. If I unplug the TV and replug it in and hit the power button, I hear something spin up (color wheel?) and a few clicks followed by a continuous clicking that is fairly quiet compared to the first clicks. The "lamp" light flashes on the front, but no change in the screen. It continues like this for maybe 30 seconds (faint clicking the whole time), then stops. This repeats two more times and then I get the 3 flashing words on the front that indicate a bad bulb.

The TV is a HL-R6168W. The whole DLP engine (including the bulb) was replaced less than two months ago because the left 3 or 4 inches of the of the screen went dark.

Thanks!

JerryLinn · Post by **JerryLinn** » Wed Jun 16, 2010 5:34 am

JerryLinn wrote:ovadoggvo,
I have read your advise to others re: Lamps that don't turn on, and tried to follow a logical sequence in fixing a Samsung 507WX; the lamp was new when I got it; so after reading this posting I replaced the ballast. I have printed and followed the boot sequence you describe and think that the set follows the sequence you describe.

At power on, the power to the ballast is 386VDC and the input to the ballast from the DMD is 4.5V. The color wheel looks OK when the lamp is removed and there is no noise coming from it. And, since the DMD delivers 4.5V it appears to have passed the color wheel test during boot up. The set come on for about 45 seconds and then shuts power down to the lamp and the 4.5v drops to 3.36v and then completely off (actually it does a bit of a dance: 4.5V, 3.78V, 1.2V, 3.36v, 1.2V, 4.5V and then off immediately). The set displays the menu OK and a picture for about 45 seconds (HDMI/DVI and PC inputs) before the power shuts off and I have 3-blinking lights -- with the temp light blinking red.

When I got the set from my son-in-law, he had replaced the lamp and my guess is that it is a DNGO lamp (that is hand written on the box in ink). Could a bad lamp give these symptoms? The picture displayed for 45 sec. is dim and I wonder if the set is starting to ramp up the voltage to the lamp when it shuts down? Is it possible that the temp sensor is shutting it down as tries to bring up the lamp output? (Both fans are running, so there is not a lack of fans to cool it.) Is there a way to bypass the temp sensor?

Any advise offered would be most appreciated. Don't want to put more $$ down a rat hole, but am willing to buy a Phillips lamp IF that is your recommendation.
Jerry

All,
I will answer my own questions:
1) Yes a NEW lamp that is bad will cause the symptoms described.
2) to test the temperature sensor, unplug the wire from the temp sensor to the digital board. Normally, the sensor contacts are closed, so unplugging the the wire opens the circuit and the temperature light goes on solid vs 3 flashing lights.
3) The digital board senses the fan circuits and if the fans are working properly, the circuit looks like it has a ground input. So, you can test the fan logic by running a jumper from ground (black wire) to the input (yellow wire) -- pins 2-3. This is tough if you don't have ready made jumpers (one is in the top fan jack on the 43 and 50 inch sets since there are two fans vs three).
4) Where can you get a service manual? Check the following store on E-bay. They have manuals in PDF format and are cheap -- you can get a copy within hours .... (got mine in minutes).
http://stores.ebay.com/Cheap-Service-Manuals
5) Finally, after checking the logic and voltage levels going into the digital board and the power and signal to the ballast, I decided to JUST BUY a new PHILLIPS lamp because everything seemed to check out. And, YES -- a bad lamp can give the symptoms I describe: 3 blinking LED's, a dim screen that is only lit for about 45 seconds. So, my son-in-law got screwed when he got a DNGO lamp. And, he got screwed again when a service tech came out and did not bring a replacement lamp with him.

I bought a ballast because that was the next logical step. But a BAD new lamp is not logical. So, if your lamp lights but won't stay lit, suspect the lamp. The digital board has checked the functioning of the the fans, temp sensor, and color wheel BEFORE it lights the lamp. If the lamp lights and the ballast has 380 Volts DC, the logic checkout is complete. When the new PHILLIPS lamp fixed the problem, I stopped looking at logic blocs and schematics -- so I cannot tell you why I saw 4.5 V vs 5.0 V on the input signal to the ballast, or while it danced around during start up.

Hope this helps some other readers. But Eddie offered good advise a while ago. Buy a GOOD lamp FIRST. If that is not your problem, you will have a spare and bought the least expensive part. The ballast may be the second choice, but IF IT LIGHTS the lamp at all, look for another problem before you buy one.

Jerry

JerryLinn · Post by **JerryLinn** » Wed Jun 16, 2010 5:44 am

61snowrider wrote:Hey I got the same problem, Did the new ballast fix it?
mdaller wrote:I think I may have this same problem with the ballast but wanted to clarify. If I unplug the TV and replug it in and hit the power button, I hear something spin up (color wheel?) and a few clicks followed by a continuous clicking that is fairly quiet compared to the first clicks. The "lamp" light flashes on the front, but no change in the screen. It continues like this for maybe 30 seconds (faint clicking the whole time), then stops. This repeats two more times and then I get the 3 flashing words on the front that indicate a bad bulb.

The TV is a HL-R6168W. The whole DLP engine (including the bulb) was replaced less than two months ago because the left 3 or 4 inches of the of the screen went dark.

Thanks!

Allend1952 · Post by **Allend1952** » Tue Jul 13, 2010 3:59 pm

Well our Samsung DLP television started making a really loud buzzing noise one evening, 2 days later it wouldn't come on at all, three words on the front were flashing. We bought a new lamp and now we have audio but no video. I have gone through all the tests I can with my meter checking volts and so on...the ballast isn't putting out the 380 that one of these posts said it was supposed to, it is putting out about 330. I don't want to put alot more money into this...can anyone tell me what is wrong with the tv now??? I don't know if I should just write it off and buy a new tv or put more money into this one! HELP!

KDB · Post by **KDB** » Wed Jul 14, 2010 4:06 pm

I have a Samsung HLR5064W dlp tv. When I turn the TV on I hear a "click" when I push the power button. Then the color wheel spins up but after a couple of seconds slows down and the lamp doesn't light. Tv will go through this sequence 3 times and then turns off with three blinking Tried the hard reset and still no go. I don't hear any faint clicking to indicate a bad ballast. The bulb appears to be fine, i also tried the old bulb I kept after replacement and it also wouldn't light. The tv worked fine prior to this incident, tried to turn tv on after being turned off earlier in the day and got the three blinking lights. Would a ballast or color wheel go this quickly.

rtech · Post by **rtech** » Tue Jul 20, 2010 7:12 am

mdaller wrote:I think I may have this same problem with the ballast but wanted to clarify. If I unplug the TV and replug it in and hit the power button, I hear something spin up (color wheel?) and a few clicks followed by a continuous clicking that is fairly quiet compared to the first clicks. The "lamp" light flashes on the front, but no change in the screen. It continues like this for maybe 30 seconds (faint clicking the whole time), then stops. This repeats two more times and then I get the 3 flashing words on the front that indicate a bad bulb.

The TV is a HL-R6168W. The whole DLP engine (including the bulb) was replaced less than two months ago because the left 3 or 4 inches of the of the screen went dark.

Thanks!

I have the exact simptoms,you already fix your tv? Today arrived my new bulb and have the same simptoms,Any help aprecciated

Kvonbose · Post by **Kvonbose** » Thu Jul 29, 2010 12:51 am

Ok, I have a Samsung DLP. I got it from my RM's parents. We watched a full movie on it and then it decided not to turn on until the next day. It fired up about 3 more times and then never again. I swapped out the Bulb and the color wheel, but with no results. I made sure the color wheel wires were put back the right way ( I even reinstalled it to double check). I have made sure the blue lever is locked in place when turning the TV on.

When I turn the TV on, the color wheel does not spin. As best I can tell the ballast makes no noise upon powering on. How do I know if the ballast is working properly or not? The bulb never comes on, it doesn't even get that far.