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I have some more information that may help with my issue. The lamp is a Phillips brand. I removed the jumper that I used to short the ballast and then checked the color wheel rpm voltage/Hz using the specs from one of the other posts. It is reading 240Hz but the voltage varys from 8v to 1.1v. I'm not sure which pin #2 is, so these readings may not be right. Does anyone know if the lamp should stay on indefinitly while the ballast is forced on, or does the ballast still pay attention to the O.K. signal(I think 5v but not sure what pin to check) from the DMD board. If it should stay on, then I think the ballast is causing the shut off issue.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Hello volvotech.
I have also read your initial post http://www.fixyourdlp.com/forum/viewtop ... 4140#p4140 and sounds like you have some experience in electronics. Let me start by answering your questions on you first post.
First of all yes, the lamp should be turn on indefinitely since you are forcing the ballast to send current to turn it on and bypassing the DMD’s command to shut it off.
Now the readings you got from the color wheel are not normal, the optimal readings for your Samsung color wheel are 180 Hz and 3.5v. so in your case its spinning to fast, there is a possibility a small chip might have come of, that’s why its going to fast. You might want to take out the color wheel and inspect it physically. Now if you think about its on a wider scale that might explain why the DMD detect an anomaly thus shutting the TV off.
So lets recap, lamp – ok, ballast – ok, lamp swith – ok, fans – ok.
So your problem will probably revolve around the color wheel & you’ll need to replace it.

Good Luck.

Thanks for the answer back
If I understand correctly, the lamp should stay on indefinetly when the ballast is forced on. Just to clarify, the lamp stays on longer but does shut off while the ballast is forced on. Doesn't that verify a bad Ballast?
As far as the color wheel voltage, I want to make sure I am testing the proper terminal. Can you tell me which pins are the proper ones (also for the 5v signal from DMD to ballast) seeing that there are not any numbers printed on the connector housing.
Thanks again!

Hello volvotech.
Don’t worry; that also perfectly normal let me explain a little more in detail of what I think is going on with your TV (I could be wrong, so don take it as a fact).
The TV try’s to turn on. (Power supply – ok), the ballast turns on the lamp after buy passing the DMD board (lamp & ballast – ok), then the TV shuts off because the DMD detects a irregularity & your getting an abnormal reading on the color wheel. That leaves these two as main suspects, how ever I would put my money on the color wheel, plus it’s a lot cheaper that the DMD board to replace.
To find out more on the color wheel here is on of my post http://www.fixyourdlp.com/forum/viewtop ... =10&t=1254
Best of luck to you.