FixYourDLP.com Forums

Greetings and salutations. First I'd like to thank everyone that comes to these boards, I've been here several times over the past year and it has helped me alot as well as saved me $$$$.

Anyway, I'm currently suffering from the no picture but sound issue with my HLN567WX. I only use this TV for an HTPC and use the DVI input. Over the past couple of months I'd be watching a movie/video and suddenly the picture would just dissappear. I'd restart and is would usually correct the problem. Then came Saturday night. I was watching a video and it shut off. I restarted the tv and it worked for about 3 minutes and cut out again. I then tried to restart it and got the blinking lamp for a while till shut off and restart, after three times I had 3 lights and no luck. I pulled the plug and started reading about the model.

The next day, I fired it up and it started and I could see my desktop, I walked out of the room and when I returned the picture was still there but in black and white only and looked like a 8 or 4 bit picture. Anyone remembering windows 3.1 will know what I mean. It was also frozen. I thought it was the PC so I restarted my PC and when I walked back in the room I realized that the picture on the monitor was the same. I restarted the TV and it went thru the cycle, failed and did that a few times till it had the 3 led's lit. I unplugged it, pulled out the bulb to inspect and am pretty sure it's fine. I replaced this bulb in November also.

I then went thru starting failures a couple of times and let it sit again overnight. Sunday morning I powered it up and was able to get it to complete the start cycle without a flashing lamp light but still no picture ( I'd already unplugged the PC and was just wanting to see the AV choices that usually comes up wen it's not plugged into anything, the Red DVI was nowhere to be seen but the tv was on, no flashing lights, bulb on and color wheel spinning. I did the same later that night and after it powers on, I can see that the bulb is working and the backlight on the screen is there but no picture.

Now, the color wheel makes me wonder. I never really noticed how loud it was before and it's not always loud but when I first start the tv after it's been off for a while it sounds like it spins up and then degrades a bit and is kinda up and down. After a few times on sunday night of starting and stopping it didn't really make much noise but I'm wondering if the speed of this wheel could be tripping a sensor causing the video not to show.

I know it sounds vague but I've read alot of people with problems and every seems to replace the bulb and then the color wheel. I'd be willing to replace the bulb again and the color wheel but I don't want to throw away money if one of these is not the problem which I don't feel at all sure of right now.

This morning I moved the monitor back in it's slot a bit and fired it up, to my surprise I walked in and saw the familiar black screen but with the red DVI video input showing. I was able to use the remote and sure enough I could see the menu. I plugged the DVI cable back into my HTPC but then the picture said DVI input not supported. I assumed that this was because Id' been watching a 32" lcd that will do 1080p and had my video settings on my video card out of range of the TV. I unplugged the connector, connected it back to the lcd and took my resolution back down to 1280x720 and when I plugged it back in I realized the DVI in red was gone as well as no picture.

I'm not sure what to do. I keep hearing about DMD boards but have no clue what DMD even stands for. I own a computer shop and I replace caps on motherboards very frequently. I've yet to really open this tv up and look at the boards inside because I was just assuming that since it's 5 years old that it's a bit finicky.

I really love this old thing, it cost almost 3k and I'd hate to have to replace it.

I've been unable to find a service manual online and if anyone could point me to one that would help.
Also, I'm needing some input on what I should be doing next. I see alot of posts talking about the DMD and digital boards? Can someone point me in the right direction?

Again, thank you and sorry for the long winded question.

Chaiyz

Just to follow up. After reading anything I could find on the model, I'm wondering if the color wheel could be the problem.

Last night after posting, I tried it again and voila, it came on. I then turned it off and tried the Mute+8+2+1+power and was unable to get it to power on using this combination. I'm a bit confused, when I click on the mute I can see the lite on the front of the tv for the remote blink, it does the same with the entire conbination but will not power on with all of those buttons depressed at the same time. Maybe I'm missing something??

So, after I couldn't get the "service screen" to come up, I turned it on normally and again, I had a picture but only for about 15 minutes. This time, I saw when it cut out and the screen went kinda black and white and with the black at bits that just ate the screen in a random order. I've since restarted it a couple more times and each time, it will turn on, good screen quality and then it just flashes black and white in like a 8 bit mode and the black blocks eat up the screen.

Is this what would happen if the color wheel was not spinning at the correct speed? I've noticed that the color wheel does make a bit of noise and it doesn't always sound like it's speed is constant but again, I'm not a DLP expert and also I looked for the light engine on D-M and was unable to find anything but bulbs and the aux imputs for this model. If I need to change the color wheel, does anyone have a link for me to get one and maybe a good tutorial on the subject matter?

Again thanks,

Chaiyz

Hello Chaiyz.
First of all I would like to congratulate you for creating such a detailed post. After carefully reading both the most probable cause is the color wheel, you see the color wheel is the one in charge of giving color to the white light emitted from the lamp. The color wheel can go bad for many reasons. The color wheels central bearing start to loosen up, causing the center to become unstable. The spinning causes it to move in a irregular way, thus not spinning at the required RPM that the DMD board regulates. Some times this could be easily fixed with a glue gun (the trick is that the middle bearing has 3 small plastic weights, as soon as one falls of, the wheel spins irregularly) buy applying the correct amount to match the other weights. How ever this is achieved buy trail and error.
If the wheel is shattered, the only solution is to replace it. Another possibility is that the sensor strip might have fallen of.
To find out more about the color wheel, its parts and how it works visit this post.
http://www.fixyourdlp.com/forum/viewtop ... =10&t=1254
keep me posted on new developments.

Thanks alot for the reply. After reading your post I again tried to get the technician menu and was able to get in and successfully clear the lamp hours. Mine was at 6400. I hoped that this was going to be the magic fix and then shut down the set and let it sit for 15 minutes. I was able to start it back up and had a screen for about 2 minutes and then it went black again with some of the white blocks left again.

I'm searching everywhere and can not locate a replacement color wheel. D-M doesn't have one listed that I can find for the HLN567WX, just bulbs. I have no clue where to get it?

Anyone have a link they could share?

Thanks and I'll keep everyone posted once I replace it and hopefully have my set working again.

Chaiyz

Hello again Chaiyz.
I think you only searched by tv model number, I suggest you look by part number, the part number is printed in one of the cables that are attached to the color wheel, normally they start with a “BP”.
Here is a small search if found on D-M:
http://www.discount-merchant.com/Search ... or%20wheel
good luck.

I found the color wheel at PCparts for $103 and was unable to find anything at D-M but the bulbs and aux inputs.
I still have not ordered the color wheel though. I'm curious to know what happens when the colorwheel shuts off the DMD, if anyone has seen one of these sets turn off the way mine does I'd feel better about spending money on it.
The wierd thing is that the screen goes to black and white but very pixelated and it looks like 8bit. Does that make sense? The set starts up pretty consistently now but still does in either 2 to 20 minutes. I'm wondering if I could be missing something else that could be causing this.

Thanks,

Chaiyz

I had one of these sets that had power supply issues that would turn off at random times. I just had to solder the bad looking spots on the power supply and then it worked. hln437wx . after it would turn it'self off I could turn it back on again and then it would turn right back off. I would have to unplug it to get it to come back on. some times it would work for a few hours and other times it wouldn't last that long. After soldering the power supply It didn't have any more issues. I used it for 3 months, then I sold it. I bought a larger one none working dlp that I repaired. I am using it until I find a bigger one to repair.