FixYourDLP.com Forums

So i bought the TV a few years ago, it had a replacement Osram bulb in it...it died the other week, and I ordered a repalcement Philips bulb.

It initial worked, and for a couple days...after the 3rd day, sometimes it would turn on (lamp indicator would blink green, then turn red)...after a few tries it would go on...this went on for a few days, until it no longer went on. I held the Input and Menu buttons, and it gave me error code 34: lamp abnormality.

the supplier sent me a 2nd bulb, which worked the first time i put it in. it worked for a week, and then i started getting the same problem.
The supplier says they tested the first bulb i sent back, and had no issues...it worked with just a ballast, and inside a TV...

The technician said the leads may come loose. A few times i have removed the housing, tightened the screw/nut for the leads, and a few times it worked right away.

Right now, it won't turn on... I have tried re-tightening the leads, but no go. Still error code 34. I hear 2 double clicks when i turn on the TV

I don't know what to do, and I don't want to ask the supplier for another bulb until i really know the problem...should i get the Osram bulb? the supplier says they are equivalent.

So i think this issue is very similar, if not the same as this issue http://www.fixyourdlp.com/forum/viewtop ... f=12&t=846

I called a local repair shop, and the ballast costs $300 (Mitsubishi quoted the same)... although I've found some online for like $54 or $125...maybe they are refurbished? i.e. the capacitor was replaced? but i can't find the p/n of the capacitor...or maybe they are inaccurately listed for my model...I have a solder certification from work, so i'd figure i'd give replacing the capacitor a shot

I called a service center, who said Mitsubishi doesn't provide a schematic of this ballast, so they didn't have a capacitor p/n or specs.

However the technician said he doesn't think its the ballast...he thinks it's more likely a different control board, power supply, or some other component (synonymous to "igniter" but i can't remember the name)....

I guess the next step is to open her up, see if the capacitor is visibly damaged (mushroomed)? Problem is that it took 30 minutes and lots of fidgeting to get the TV to turn on this time...I'd like to have a replacement part in hand before i turn her off and open her up

Thanks

UPDATE: (would really appreciate a reply)

To recap the whole store...
Bought the TV used from a friend in 2008 - he has just replaced the bulb.
Couple months ago the lamp warning started to come on, and a few weeks ago the lamp died and the red lamp light came on.

Bought a Philips bulb online. installed it, and it worked great for about a week. after a week sometimes it would take 2 or 3 tries to turn on, then it just wouldn't go on. TV gave me error 34: lamp abnormality.

Sent the bulb back, retailer sent a new one. retailer said they tested the bulb with a ballast and in a TV and it worked no problem.
The new bulb worked fine for a few days and started to exhibit the same problem. Found the article posted about, which said it was a ballast issue....however from mits or a service center it is $300 for the mits p/n. When talking to the service shop, they did not think it was the ballast.

Also found out the issue with the ballast (and chassis in general) are poor capacitors.

While talking to a 17 year technician at (justanswer.com) i decided that i would try to replace the capacitor on the ballast (I have solder certification and experience from a previous job).
So i opened her up, took out the ballast, identified the capacitor and ordered a couple (cheap at $2.5 ea)...i also leaned the ballast is made by osram, and found replacements online for $50 instead of $300.

Desoldered the capacitor from the ballast, put in the new one, and saw no damage to the PCB...
To my satisfaction, the TV turned on right away! (started to count my chickens)...this was last Monday. All that day the TV turned on and off no prob. Same Tuesday...Then Wednesday it went back to sometime turning on, and eventually not turning on.

I posted the update to the technician at justanswer, and he said " it sounds like you may have a very small ring crack on one of the solder joints." and suggested to trace all the solder joints on the ballast board, reheat each one with a soldering iron, and to add a bit of solder to each....I did this, and did not fix the problem.

He thinks it could be the ballast, and i could try replacing it...however many people have said this particular ballast is actually a good one, and there have been problems with the chassis, that apparently Mitsubishi MIGHT either pay for the parts, or discount the parts, but i still have to pay for the labor.

I've talked to some repair shops about testing the ballast, and they said they can't, but they can send out a technician and charge me $100 just to diagnose... Problem is I'm a student, about to graduate, and have extra time, but limited money.

The service manual tells you how to take things apart, but not diagnose... When i asked the service shop how their technician would diagnose, they said its based on experience...they may hear, or see or smell something etc....

Any advice? (that isn't costly).... Thank you in advance

My personal suggestion is that you replace the ballast (the entire board). Since the only way to test the ballast is with a oscilloscope, I really don’t see another alternative. Plus 50 or 60 bucks for a ballast doesn’t sound so bad (compared what those clowns at the repair show are trying to charge you). Any way if all else fails, buy a new TV.

Crowell wrote:My personal suggestion is that you replace the ballast (the entire board). Since the only way to test the ballast is with a oscilloscope, I really don’t see another alternative. Plus 50 or 60 bucks for a ballast doesn’t sound so bad (compared what those clowns at the repair show are trying to charge you). Any way if all else fails, buy a new TV.

that might be what i will do (ballast)...problem is i don't have the money to buy a new TV, let alone a few hundred dollars for a technician to come out...I'm a grad student with time, not money...and once i have a job, I'll be investing all my money into a company to design assisted living devices to help the disabled and elderly with their everyday lives....and pay back my loans...so no budget for a brand new TV...

I'd just like to have more assurance that it's the ballast. If i can get my hands on an oscilloscope (like on campus), can you provide me instructions to test it?

Thanks

Crowell wrote:My personal suggestion is that you replace the ballast (the entire board). Since the only way to test the ballast is with a oscilloscope, I really don’t see another alternative. Plus 50 or 60 bucks for a ballast doesn’t sound so bad (compared what those clowns at the repair show are trying to charge you). Any way if all else fails, buy a new TV.

If i can get my hands on an oscilloscope, can you provide me instructions to test it?