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I have an HL-R5067W that is experiencing the checkerboard effect and green lines on both the cable digital and OTA digital channels. This effect does not appear on the menu, although the TV will freeze on the menu. Consequently, I think this might be a problem with the digital board. Unfortunately, I am quite confused as to what is the correct part number for the digital board (as compared to the DM board). I have seen references to BP94-1858A, BP-02084A and BP41-00237A. Could someone please help. Thanks -- John

According to samsungparts.com the part number for your model is BP94-01859F. However they are offering the BP94-01859F as a replacement since the original is discontinued by manufacturer.

You might want to call samsungparts to make sure that part will work on your TV.

Link to the BP94-01859F listing: http://www.samsungparts.com/part_detail ... l=HLR5067W

Hope this helps.

Thank you for your response. I believe that BP94-01858A, BP94-01859F and BP96-02168A are all substitutes for each other. However, when I inputted my TV model (HL-R5067W) into samsungparts.com and the key word "digital," the site also listed BP94-02084A. Would you (or anyone else) know which is correct? I downloaded the Service Manual, and it mentions BP94-02084A, but not the others. Note that BP94-02084A is about $200 cheaper than the prices of the other three.

Thanks,
John

Well, if your service manual says so and it's a cheaper option, I'd go for it. Believe me, service manuals are a useful tool.

Let us know how it goes

Thanks. I'll likely search for the part number referenced in the Service Manual (BP94-02084A) and see how much it costs. Then before buying it, I want to get a feel as to how difficult it will be to swap out the old board for the new. I don't want to buy the new board and then find out that the repair is beyond my meager skills. So far, I haven't been able to find any instructions on how to replace the digital board, other than the limited information provided in the Service Manual.

Thanks again for your help.

John

Actually there is no replacement guide for the digital board. Maybe someone who has done this task successfully can help you. I'll make a guide once I get a Samsung DLP

Thanks for all of your help. If I may trouble you a bit more. I've been doing more reading, and I have been confusing myself a bit. How can I tell whether the board to be replaced is the analog or digital board? To be more specific:

1. The HD channels (cable and OTA) start out fine and then slowly develop a flashing green checkerboard in the background.

2. The SD channels (cable and OTA) are all green, flashing with lines.

3. My DVD player, which is connected by S-video cable, is green flashing with lines.

4. My VCR player, which is connected by the old fashion VGA cables is green and flashing with lines.

I had originally thought that the problem was the digital board, but now I'm not too sure. What do you think?

Thanks,
John

If using the HDMI / DVI input the problem still there, then the digital board is malfunctioning, else the problem is in the analog.

Thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately, my TV is connected directly to the cable and uses a cablecard, so I'm not too sure that I have anything that I can connect to the HDMI/DVI input. I'll have to check the upstairs TV, which is connected to cable using a cable box. If that box has an HDMI-out, perhaps I can use it.

John

NEhelp,

I took a cable box from my bedroom TV and attached it to the Samsung's HDMI input. Both the cable SD and HD pictures were fine -- no green flashing lines and no faint green flashing checkerboard. So, would you say that I have a defective analog board or digital board?

Thanks,
John

jjost wrote:NEhelp,

I took a cable box from my bedroom TV and attached it to the Samsung's HDMI input. Both the cable SD and HD pictures were fine -- no green flashing lines and no faint green flashing checkerboard. So, would you say that I have a defective analog board or digital board?

Thanks,
John

Then the problem is in the analog board, since the HDMI input doesn't go through the analog board, it passes directly to the digital board.

Hope this help.

Dear NEhelp,

Thanks for all of the advice. I intend to order an analog board -- BP94-02049E -- probably from Samsungparts.com. Because of my travel schedule, it might be several weeks before I can order, receive and install the board. But I'll report back to the forum when I finish the replacement. Thanks again.

John

jjost wrote:Dear NEhelp,

Thanks for all of the advice. I intend to order an analog board -- BP94-02049E -- probably from Samsungparts.com. Because of my travel schedule, it might be several weeks before I can order, receive and install the board. But I'll report back to the forum when I finish the replacement. Thanks again.

John

I think this may fix your old digital board but I am not sure. the hl-r5067w (hlr5067wax/xaa) are know to have issues with the digital board. I found this out after I had issues with my set. I talked to a tech friend that lives in FL and he told me the digital boards are a common failer area on this model. I took the digital board out of the metal casing and saw a chip in side that said dnie. known from having issues with my xbox 360 and having to use an x clamp on a chip like this. i made a heatsink that goes on top and its a tight fit to the metal casing pushing down on the chip. (the leads are under the chip so pushing down on them makes them get contact if the solder is broken.) after doing so my tv works just fine. without having to buy a 238 dollar replacement digital board.

Jason i too am having digital board problems and have been waitinig on the backorder part for a couple months. I see the DNIe chip but i need some more info on the heat sink you made.What is it made of? What did you solder it to? Can you post some detailed instructions or a web link? Your help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

well i didnt solder it. I just make sure it fit against the top cover tight so it wouldnt move. I used an heat sink i had laying around and a soda cap off a 20 oz soda. it made a tight fit. at first i used foil over the heat sink but I was afraid it would short out. I did find one place that shows they have the digital board in stock but not sure if its rights. I have the page saved on my laptop down stairs. at the price of 188 dollars and a 50 dollar core charge. but when i go to that company upstairs and type in the part number it says back ordered. so It makes me wonder do they have it or not.

someone gave me the bright idea of using a heat gun on it so i took it back apart earlyer today and tried to heat it up to melt the solder under the chip. now my tv wont work. now I am going to have to order the board. I was having issues that mine wouldnt even turn on before doing the heat sink and making it fit tight against the top. after that my tv would work. but i started to have issues with the green screen like you have. before the tv died i didnt have the green screen issue. from what i was reading its also part of the digital board issues. you can try to push down on that chip to see if it fixes your green screen issues but it may or may not work.

I did end up figuring out something to do. I just did not think long enough before i posted asking questions. What i ended up doing is I bought 3/4 square aluminum tubing ay Lowes and cut it 1.12 inches long. I then placed it on top of the DNIe chip and slowly put the metal cover back on. The length (1.12 in.) seemed to be enough pressure down on the chip without having to force the screws back in the cover. After the cover was reassembled I put 2 screws ( 1.0 inches long) down thru the top cover (using the existing holes in the cover). I put the 2 screws up aqainst the inside edges of the square tubing so it will not shift and stay in place. Im hoping it will apply enough pressure in case the connection is loose and also dissipate the heat up into the metal cover from the chip. The square tube also allows air to the top of the chip. I reassembled the TV and it has been on for 2 hours now and no problems yet. I will post back updates if it continues to work or fails later. Thanks for your help.

Dear NEhelp,

To follow-up on our earlier emails, I finally received and installed the new analog board Saturday. For a newbie like me, the experience was a bit harrowing, but not all that difficult. So far, the new board has solved my TV's problems -- both SD and HD pictures are fine. Knock on wood that this fix sticks. Thank you very much for your assistance. I could never have fixed my TV without your help and this forum.

Regards,
John

we found a guy that reflows the solder in the digital board he chages $40. so far so good here is his link. http://jdelectronicsinc.com/ we have been talking about this issue on this other forum. http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/ ... post211500

jjost,

I wanted to see if you have had a recurrence of your problems since you replaced your Analog board?

I am planning on replacing mine, as I have the same problem you did.

Hopefully you get this reply!

Thanks,

Barry

young1 wrote:jjost,

I wanted to see if you have had a recurrence of your problems since you replaced your Analog board?

I am planning on replacing mine, as I have the same problem you did.

Hopefully you get this reply!

Thanks,

Barry

I replaced the old analog board, but the new analog board did not resolve the problem. So, I replaced the old digital board (leaving the new analog board in the TV) with a new digital board. That worked, and the TV has been fine ever since. I do not know whether the problem would have been resolved with just the new digital board. Both boards were purchased new from Samsungparts. Best of luck.

John

OK, thanks... My TV only exhibits the problem when plugged into Composite or Component... even the port on the side has the issue. HDMI is always fine....

Is that the same thing you saw?

Similar to this:

Thanks

young1 wrote:OK, thanks... My TV only exhibits the problem when plugged into Composite or Component... even the port on the side has the issue. HDMI is always fine....

Is that the same thing you saw?

Similar to this:

Thanks

No, my TV picture's problem was a green checkerboard. The cable service is plugged directly into the TV. When I took a cable box that was attached to another TV and connected it to the problem TV via HDMI, the picture looked fine. However, I don't know whether I left the cable box connected long enough to permit the problem to develop. The problem TV also had the green checkerboad on the S-video and composite(?) inputs.

Regards,
John

Here are actual shots of my TV... My DVD player is connected to Component1 and has the problem.
My VCR is connected to AV1 has the problem.
The Coax (ANT 1 IN) has the problem.

Interestingly, I have my AT&T Uverse box connected to Component2 & it never has the problem. It looks like the Analog board plugs into the Digital board... so I am guessing that my problem is with the Digital board.

Only $250 from Samsungparts.com (with a $50 credit is I send the old board back). But what if that isnt the problem? Do you know if they allow you to return the part? Probably not.

Thanks for your help, John. I appreciate it.

Barry

young1 wrote:Here are actual shots of my TV...

AV1_small.jpg

Component1_small.JPG

My DVD player is connected to Component1 and has the problem.
My VCR is connected to AV1 has the problem.
The Coax (ANT 1 IN) has the problem.

Interestingly, I have my AT&T Uverse box connected to Component2 & it never has the problem.

ports.JPG

It looks like the Analog board plugs into the Digital board... so I am guessing that my problem is with the Digital board.

Only $250 from Samsungparts.com (with a $50 credit is I send the old board back). But what if that isnt the problem? Do you know if they allow you to return the part? Probably not.

Thanks for your help, John. I appreciate it.

Barry

Your screen shots somewhat resemble my TV's problems, especially your first screen shot. I don't remember Samsungparts.com's return policy, if you do purchase the digital board and it doesn't work out. The replacement of the digital board, although not too difficult, is tedious -- you must take care to ensure all of the various cable connections are correct. If you are a neophyte like me, you might wish to purchase the Samsung service manual.

Good luck,
John

it looks like they have a 15% restocking fee... so, about $38, plus shipping.

Before I ordered any parts, I called SAMSUNGPARTS.COM, and I am glad I did. It seems that any of the Printed Circuit Board (PCB) items that they sell, are not returnable. Same is true for the DLP chip.

When I explained my symptoms, she said it could be any number of things.

It could be the digital board, the DLP chip, a DMB board? All of which are expensive as heck. It may be time to get a new TV.

I may call a local TV repair shop to have them diagnose the problem.

If you guys are interested in what happens, I can keep posting... if not, thank you for your help!

Barry