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ovadoggvo · Post by **ovadoggvo** » Sat Mar 14, 2009 12:56 am

John,
The problem you are experiencing is MOST LIKELY a ballast issue. OSRAM lamps are not manufactured with the same quality and precion as the Philips lamps, hence, you are having a better chance with the Philips bulb. The intermittent power is normally a result of a "weak" ballast. OSRAM lamps may have a 10% variation in the FIRING GAP of the lamp. These lamps either have a 1.0 GAP or 1.3 GAP.. With 10% variation you are looking at .9 or 1.1 which is enough to throw your ballast off.

For this reason I my "recommendation" is always buy a Philips lamp from an authorized dealer (beware of imitation Philips bulbs)... China is very advanced in the duplication process and I would pay the extra $5-$10 and buy from a reputable Philips dealer. Partstore is one of them and Discount-Merchant.com is the other. Philips's largest distributor in the USA is said to be Discount-Merchant.com... I confirmed this with Philips Lighting USA just to make sure its not "hear/say". Funny thing is that they are a authorized OSRAM distributor as well, however, they do not advertise the OSRAM product where Philips is available.

An aftermarket lamp may stress or weaken your ballast faster than normal. Your ballast/lamp driver is made for the original lamp, hence, an aftermaket lamp may have caused your ballasts' last gasp of air.

Here is a good link I just found to information abour lamp manufacturing:
http://www.lampresearch.com/news/2008/0 ... s-generic/

It shows a picture of the firing gap on a lamp!

Anyways, Yohan.. My diagnosis will be the ballast in this case.

Guys... Remember, I'm giving you my recommendation only. This is not a gaurantee and please don't hold me responsible if I mis-diagnose your set.

I always give you my OPINION followed by the reasoning behind my opinion in order for other to read and learn from these diagnosis. It also helps to describe the reasoning behind the diagnosis in order to make sure I understood the symptoms properly.

Let us know how it goes!

ovadoggvo · Post by **ovadoggvo** » Sat Mar 14, 2009 1:19 am

To test to see whether or not your ballast is getting power, look at the test point in this photo. The voltage can be measured with a standard multimeter set to DC voltage. The current should be 320V to 380V .. If you are getting about 320V, this means that your power supply is functioning properly.

: Check here for 320V~380V; ballast-testpoint.jpg (55.33 KiB) Viewed 56080 times

If you lamp still does not turn on, but you are getting enough voltage to the ballast; you may have 1 of 3 problems:

Problem 1: Ballast is bad.
Reason: Ballast is getting the necessary voltage but fails to power the lamp. Listen in for clicking to see if the ballast is actually attempting to turn on. 1 Click means the ballast is strong and the lamp may be bad or faulty (rarely do Philips lamps fail to turn on from the factory as they go through extensive QUALITY ASSURANCE before they are shipped out of the factory, unlike OSRAM/3rd Party lamps). A bad ballast will not click or will click multiple times intermittently like a rattle snake!
I recommend purchasing a ballast from http://www.discount-merchant.com/if they have it available. They normally sell them way under market price (around $69). This will help you diagnose further.

Problem 2: Color wheel is bad.
Reason: Will not prevent the DMD from sending 5V signal to ballast to turn it on. This happens because the color wheel sensor does not detect proper revolution speed and prevents the TV from turning on in order to prevent further damage to the set. The ballast will not click if colorwheel can not spin properly. The ballast will click on, then shut off after a few seconds when proper revolutions are not detected.
Again, D-M.com is the place... They sell them for $59-$79 if they have them in stock.

Problem 3: DMD board is bad.
Reason: DMD board is failing to send 5V signal to the ballast to turn it on. DMD Board needs to be replaced. Check http://www.discount-merchant.com/ as they are now selling these for DIRT CHEAP! $180-$200.

The above diagnosis should be followed in the order above... which is most common to least common. Coincidentally, the first diagnosis steps are the cheapest!

Let us know how it goes!

--edited image file size.

falltillfly · Post by **falltillfly** » Sat Mar 14, 2009 4:43 am

Ovadoggvo, I'm asking on in this forum as well, really hoping you can give me some guidance. Our 46" DLP started making the loud buzzing noise suddenly, and the picture turned purple. From reading online we figured it was a bad color wheel. I opened it up and sure enough, the color wheel was shattered. So I've replaced it.
When I first put everything back together, it did not work. It would start to turn on, making some clicking noise, but the lamp would not light. As far as I could tell only one fan would come on, that's it. It would click a few more times, before turning off and blinking the 3 lights on the power button.
I took everything apart again and found I'd re-inserted the orange strip from the color wheel backwards. After correcting that, the tv will turn on, picture and everything, but only for about 10 seconds before turning itself off and blinking the red Standby and green Lamp lights on the power button.
Do you have any idea what the problem might be? I am guessing it's the ballast, but if you have any other ideas, or could confirm my guess, I would really appreciate it! Thank you!

ovadoggvo · Post by **ovadoggvo** » Sat Mar 14, 2009 4:50 am

falltillfly,
What is the model number of your TV?

When was the last time you replaced your lamp? If you have replaced it, did you replace it with a Philips brand bulb from an authorized distributor? Intermittent lamp problems are common these days with the lack of quality used in 3rd party or NON-Original lamps.

The reason I say this is because it would be very unlikely that your colorwheel and ballast fail at the same time.

Does your ballast make 1 single strong click, or multiple weak clicks before it fires up the lamp?

Did you replace your color wheel & housing or just the bare color wheel? At rare times when your colorwheel goes bad, it damages the sensor as well. Was your original color wheel physically broken?

With more information, I can help you diagnose further.

BTW.. For lamps, I always recommend Discount-Merchant.com or Partstore... D-M is much cheaper in almost all cases and you are getting the ORIGINAL Philips brand lamp at a reduced price.

falltillfly · Post by **falltillfly** » Sat Mar 14, 2009 4:35 pm

Ovadoggvo,
Thanks for getting back to me! The tv model number is HL-R4667W, a 46" Samsung rear projection DLP.
I have never changed the lamp, and the tv is about 3.5-4 years old.
When I turn it on, it makes one loud click, just like it always did, and everything goes on, lamp, color wheel, fans, etc.
I replaced the whole color wheel with housing. The old color wheel was shattered, the glass was broken in a few different places.
I hope this info helps, and thank you very much for your time!

-Marla

ovadoggvo · Post by **ovadoggvo** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 1:26 am

falltillfly,
I would recommend buying a lamp first! That is the FIRST thing you need to do to diagnose further. I have had people change light engines, ballasts, dmd boards, and the only problem was that their lamp was never changed or it was changed with an aftermarket product!

Buy a new lamp and i'm sure it will fix your problem, or at least a great deal of it! Most likely the breakage of the color wheel caused the weak lamp to lose it's umph. I highly recommend Discount-Merchant.com as they are THE official Philips lamp distributor in the USA. You will not get refurbished, used, or fake philips lamps from them.

boblasek · Post by **boblasek** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 3:20 am

Hi ovadoggvo,

I tried to post on the other forum you are on but i guess it never went through. I have a HLR4664WAX Samsung.

My brother was playing video games when he left for about 20mins. When he came back the screen was black but it was still lit. The TV starts up fine, ballast fires and the lamp shines bright (from what i can see through the back) But there is no picture and there is no sound. I cannot change the input nor can i see that its trying to change it. What do you recommenced to fix it and where can i get that part?

robertt4x4 · Post by **robertt4x4** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 7:41 am

I have a Samsung HLM617W that has diagonal dark lines running through it. They are spaced about 1" to 2" apart and cover the whole screen. I have not hooked it up using the DVI yet but all other types of connections have the same results. I was wondering if it could be the DMD board. I could use any help.

sgoconnor · Post by **sgoconnor** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 4:03 pm

The TV backlight stays on for about two minutes after the LAMP LED stops flashing then it powers off and the STAND BY/TEMP LED lights red (auto shutoff I'm guessing). By the remote not responding I mean that other then the TIMER LED flashing nothing else responds when I press a button on the unit. For example, if after turning the TV on I press the Power button the remote it won't shut off. I don't get any audio or any on-screen visuals (such as menus).

Thanks for the responce!!!

ovadoggvo · Post by **ovadoggvo** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 5:37 pm

boblasek,
I was having problems with the ecoustic forum too, that's why I migrated here. I still try to help out there, but I can do a much better job here since I can attach photos and this forum seems to have a lot of nice features that are easy to use.

Can you enter the menu system?
Have you tried entering service mode?
To enter service mode, unplug your TV... Then plug it in.. On the remote press Mute, 1, 8, 2, power.. This will turn on your TV and enter the service menu. Once you are there, do a factory reset.

As for your TV... My guess would be that your DMD board has failed. The DMD board is directly responsible for outputing images to the screen. Check discount-merchant.com, if they have it in stock it will only cost you $180-$200 .. They also sell complete light engines for $230-$290.. so for a few dlls more you can get the complete optical block, dmd, and light tunnel... Again, if they have it. I've been buying many parts from there because without them, many people would be out of TV's as they are the only place you can find those boards at reasonable prices. If they do not have the boards you need, check back on their site every week. The seem to be getting new parts in stock regularly.

Let me know more information and I can help you out a bit more.

ovadoggvo · Post by **ovadoggvo** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 5:41 pm

robertt4x4,
Press menu on your tv remote control. Do you experience the same lines on the menu system?

Bring up your PIP with a different input.. Do you have the same lines in your little Picture in Picture box?

Let me know so I can help diagnose further.

ovadoggvo · Post by **ovadoggvo** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 5:50 pm

sgoconnor,
Have you done a hard reset and then tried to enter the service menu like i posted above?

It's a bad situation because the problem could be with either the DMD board or Digital Board in your case... As mike b. had posted in the other forum, he changed his dmd with a similar issue and still no luck. The reason I put more emphasis on DMD is because it controls the on-off cycle by sending the "signal to turn on" to both your ballast and color wheel. Since your set turns off after two minutes, it makes me lean more towards the DMD board rather than the Digital Board.. However, i would say it's a 55% DMD to 45% Digital board issue.

Let us know more information that may make me lean more to one end than the other.

Any clicks of the ballast? Have you checked your colorwheel for functionality? Does it seem like the video is not being processed or the TV is just flat out frozen?

Eddie · Post by **Eddie** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 6:31 pm

Robert,

You might want to try different cables. That looks like interference to me caused by a bad cable. Like Ovadoggvo suggests, you should try your menus too or different inputs such as video games or DVD players. Definitely try other connections first.

robertt4x4 wrote:I have a Samsung HLM617W that has diagonal dark lines running through it. They are spaced about 1" to 2" apart and cover the whole screen. I have not hooked it up using the DVI yet but all other types of connections have the same results. I was wondering if it could be the DMD board. I could use any help.

preludedez · Post by **preludedez** » Mon Mar 16, 2009 1:31 am

Samsung HLN437W.

The problem I am having with this TV are a few. It is my sons tv and after a few days of having the tv working he began getting like fuzz lines on the screen when using HD. The cable is a bit fuzzy but enough to not bother you. Well, the other day we could not turn the tv on. It sat about 2 weeks and I finaly got to it today. I opened up the back and check the power from the plug to the board it was 123.xx. then I noticed that the green led light on the board with the metal cover, the one with the vga dvi inputs on it, was on. The tv would not turn on still." I did push in the sensor to make sure it read that door was closed." Nothing, well i then took the sensor off then back on and it came on. Still had the fuzz lines on hd but when you put on reguler tv video l/r audio it was ok. Well, the next problem came after we let it run for about 30 min went back into the room then try to turn the tv off and it wouldnt work. the volume or chanel change didnt work either. I shut it down via power switch on the strip. Try to turn it back on and it will not turn back on. I am not getting any blinking light on the front panel. However, when I look in the rear side of the tv I seen the green light on the vga board is on, but I also see a white light also that is near the mirror glass area. Any idea waht this can be?

PS the tv was givin to us we have no remote thanks

robertt4x4 · Post by **robertt4x4** » Mon Mar 16, 2009 2:47 am

Thank you for the help.
I brought the menu up and the lines still show up. I brought the PIP up with the same source just looking at a different channel and the lines disapperared. I also brought the pip up with a dvd player input and the lines were not there. I connected the dvd player as the only source to the tv and the lines were present.

ovadoggvo wrote:robertt4x4,
Press menu on your tv remote control. Do you experience the same lines on the menu system?

Bring up your PIP with a different input.. Do you have the same lines in your little Picture in Picture box?

Let me know so I can help diagnose further.

Eddie · Post by **Eddie** » Mon Mar 16, 2009 5:00 am

it sounds like a main DMD board issue to me... Anyone else thnk that could be it?

robertt4x4 wrote:Thank you for the help.
I brought the menu up and the lines still show up. I brought the PIP up with the same source just looking at a different channel and the lines disapperared. I also brought the pip up with a dvd player input and the lines were not there. I connected the dvd player as the only source to the tv and the lines were present.

ovadoggvo wrote:robertt4x4,
Press menu on your tv remote control. Do you experience the same lines on the menu system?

Bring up your PIP with a different input.. Do you have the same lines in your little Picture in Picture box?

Let me know so I can help diagnose further.

ovadoggvo · Post by **ovadoggvo** » Mon Mar 16, 2009 8:06 pm

preludedez,
First of all... Be very careful powering down the TV using the power strip as it can damage your lamp, ballast, and power supply. When you turn off your TV using your power button or remote control, it does not technically turn off... It goes into standby mode which then detects the temperature within your TV set and Lamp and decides whether further cool-down is necessary. By fliping the switch on the power strip you are preventing proper cool down of your TV's components and you may damage the power supply, ballast, and/or lamp. It is called an unexpected power-down and it may damage your set severely.

2nd. The fuzzy lines could either indicate a bad DMD board or a bad Digital Board. The digital board is the board with the DNIe chip which has the tuner/coaxial connection on it. The DMD Board is the board with DLP chip by Texas Instruments. If your menu system is not fuzzy but the actual video is fuzzy and you are experiencing problems with the remote control, I suggest replacing the Digital Board.

If your menu system is fuzzy as well then the DMD board is most likely the issue.

The video travels from the Analog board throught the Digital board (or directly from the digital board on digital inputs) and then to the DMD board.

I highly recommend http://www.discount-merchant.com/ ... They have these parts at less than 1/2 of what samsung sells them for! Since they started selling DLP parts 2 months ago I have brought to life 30 or so TV's which otherwise would have been trash or non-feasible to repair. Great source, great service, and they come highly recommended.

Let us know more detail if you can. It will help diagnose further.

ovadoggvo · Post by **ovadoggvo** » Mon Mar 16, 2009 8:17 pm

robertt4x4,
DMD Board is my first guess if the menu still has the lines through it. The reason I say this is because the menu system is not processed through the DNIe chip.

robertt4x4 wrote:Thank you for the help.
I brought the menu up and the lines still show up. I brought the PIP up with the same source just looking at a different channel and the lines disapperared. I also brought the pip up with a dvd player input and the lines were not there. I connected the dvd player as the only source to the tv and the lines were present.

preludedez · Post by **preludedez** » Tue Mar 17, 2009 1:04 am

ovadoggvo

Thanks for the input on that. The reason I did the power switch on the strip was because none of the buttons were doing anything. I tried to press power channel vol menu tv and nothing would happen. Is the board with the coax you are talking about the one to the left as you pull the board out? Looks like a computer tv pci card kind of? Thanks again

ovadoggvo · Post by **ovadoggvo** » Tue Mar 17, 2009 2:49 pm

preludedez,
The board in the "L" shape to the left is the Digital Board (It does look like a motherboard with a pci card in there). It looks something like this:
http://www.discount-merchant.com/We-pro ... amsung.htm

mbilak · Post by **mbilak** » Tue Mar 17, 2009 5:18 pm

Ovadoggvo
I have a hl-s5065 unit I have changed the lamp and the ballast with the problem of the lamp not
turning on. I have the 340vdc to the ballast. I do not hear the ballast clicking.
I figure there are some interlocks that prevent the ballast from turning on through the
5pin connector on the ballast. What would be the measurement through out this connector?
I have checked the color wheel and was able to spin it by hand. It does make a little noise when I spin it fast but I can hear this same sound when the unit is powered on.
Is there a way to force the ballast board on to check and eliminate the light engine and digital board?
I figured to try to turn on the optocouplers.
Next with the DVI connector Since the light engine is not on, Can I connect the to a monitor
and see if that part of the unit is working?
Any info would be appreciated.

Mark

Eddie · Post by **Eddie** » Tue Mar 17, 2009 10:33 pm

Ovadoggvo,

I'm going to resize your picture. It's taking a long time to download for other site visitors. Next time, keep your file sizes down, will you?

Thanks

ovadoggvo wrote:To test to see whether or not your ballast is getting power, look at the test point in this photo. The voltage can be measured with a standard multimeter set to DC voltage. The current should be 320V to 380V .. If you are getting about 320V, this means that your power supply is functioning properly.

ballast-testpoint.jpg
If you lamp still does not turn on, but you are getting enough voltage to the ballast; you may have 1 of 3 problems:

Problem 1: Ballast is bad.
Reason: Ballast is getting the necessary voltage but fails to power the lamp. Listen in for clicking to see if the ballast is actually attempting to turn on. 1 Click means the ballast is strong and the lamp may be bad or faulty (rarely do Philips lamps fail to turn on from the factory as they go through extensive QUALITY ASSURANCE before they are shipped out of the factory, unlike OSRAM/3rd Party lamps). A bad ballast will not click or will click multiple times intermittently like a rattle snake!
I recommend purchasing a ballast from http://www.discount-merchant.com/if they have it available. They normally sell them way under market price (around $69). This will help you diagnose further.

Problem 2: Color wheel is bad.
Reason: Will not prevent the DMD from sending 5V signal to ballast to turn it on. This happens because the color wheel sensor does not detect proper revolution speed and prevents the TV from turning on in order to prevent further damage to the set. The ballast will not click if colorwheel can not spin properly. The ballast will click on, then shut off after a few seconds when proper revolutions are not detected.
Again, D-M.com is the place... They sell them for $59-$79 if they have them in stock.

Problem 3: DMD board is bad.
Reason: DMD board is failing to send 5V signal to the ballast to turn it on. DMD Board needs to be replaced. Check http://www.discount-merchant.com/ as they are now selling these for DIRT CHEAP! $180-$200.

The above diagnosis should be followed in the order above... which is most common to least common. Coincidentally, the first diagnosis steps are the cheapest!

Let us know how it goes!

preludedez · Post by **preludedez** » Tue Mar 17, 2009 11:28 pm

Ovadoggvo

Again, I thank you for you help. i am going to order that board right from the site that you recomend. Its the lowest cost to repair lol. I will oreder this weekend and will keep you all posted on what happened.

Eddie · Post by **Eddie** » Wed Mar 18, 2009 2:10 am

Keep us all posted! We're eager to learn the outcome!

preludedez wrote:Ovadoggvo

Again, I thank you for you help. i am going to order that board right from the site that you recomend. Its the lowest cost to repair lol. I will oreder this weekend and will keep you all posted on what happened.

boblasek · Post by **boblasek** » Wed Mar 18, 2009 2:37 am

ovadoggvo wrote:boblasek,
I was having problems with the ecoustic forum too, that's why I migrated here. I still try to help out there, but I can do a much better job here since I can attach photos and this forum seems to have a lot of nice features that are easy to use.

Can you enter the menu system?
Have you tried entering service mode?
To enter service mode, unplug your TV... Then plug it in.. On the remote press Mute, 1, 8, 2, power.. This will turn on your TV and enter the service menu. Once you are there, do a factory reset.

As for your TV... My guess would be that your DMD board has failed. The DMD board is directly responsible for outputing images to the screen. Check discount-merchant.com, if they have it in stock it will only cost you $180-$200 .. They also sell complete light engines for $230-$290.. so for a few dlls more you can get the complete optical block, dmd, and light tunnel... Again, if they have it. I've been buying many parts from there because without them, many people would be out of TV's as they are the only place you can find those boards at reasonable prices. If they do not have the boards you need, check back on their site every week. The seem to be getting new parts in stock regularly.

Let me know more information and I can help you out a bit more.

I went to the parts website you told me to go to and they could not find the part number for my TV for the DMD bpoard and bsically told me they cant help. I havent tried the first thing you suggested but i will when i get home. Although the screen lights black but there is never anything displayed when i press the buttons on the remote.

I just found this part number

BP96-00678D

It says it will work with my tv but i did not find it on the site you suggested. Is this just the board itself and not the entirelight engine. Any more help would be useful as i am somewhat strapped for money at the moment.

ovadoggvo · Post by **ovadoggvo** » Wed Mar 18, 2009 3:44 am

mbilak,
I would assume the color wheel is defective. Not powering on but 340V to a brand new ballast means your Power Supply is good. Your ballast is good. Your lamp is new (philips i assume) and it leaves 1 option. The Ballast is not getting the signal to turn on the lamp. This means either your DMD board is bad (unlikely on the HLS model and this problem) or your colorwheel is not working properly or getting to the required RPM for it to send the go ahead to the DMD board.

Also, the sensor board on the color wheel housing may be bad... I would recommend changing the color wheel and housing on this one. Normally i recommend the bare color wheel but in this case, it may be a sensor issue or a timing mark issue on the wheel itself.

The DVI cable does not output a regular video signal. It is just used as a communication cable between the DB and DMD board.

boblasek · Post by **boblasek** » Wed Mar 18, 2009 5:49 pm

I just found another part number searching through discount merchant

BP41-00119B

This is just for the DMD board, however it does not state that in the description. I found it by seatching for my tv and finding the light engine assy.

Will this work for my HLR4667w?

Jauxter · Post by **Jauxter** » Thu Mar 19, 2009 7:13 am

Hi ova and eddie

I have a 50" hlp5085w that I purchased in 2005. I have had no problems with it until recently. I will try to turn the set on, it will go through its start up routine, but not turn on. In the round center LED display, it will show that there is a problem with the fan. I can unplug the unit, let it sit for a day, plug it back in, and it will start up normally a few times, then the fan warning again.

I have pulled out the fan and tested it (at least, the only fan I could find), and the fan worked without a problem. I put the fan back in, and it still will work only when it wants to. On the times that I turn the set on and it doesn't start, I cannot hear any clicks. When the set does turn on, I can hear a click coming from the base of the set (this model has a pedestal base built-in housing the electronics).

When the set does work, everything works fine, all inputs work, I have sound, a good picture, etc. I could use a new bulb, as the picture is not as bright as it once was.

Now, I am assuming that if the fan were broken, it would not work at all, not even after unplugging the set. The fact that I can unplug the set and have it work again leads me to believe that it may not be the fan that is defective. That being said, I don't know what it could be, as the only warning that comes on is the fan warning.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

Jauxter

SteveJones · Post by **SteveJones** » Thu Mar 19, 2009 8:36 pm

Jauxter,

From my experience, the Samsung error codes are useless...They are always blinking and the problem never tends to be what the error codes point to.

It sounds like your Samsung HLP5085W is controlling the fan (powering it on and off) as necessary, the way the TV was originally designed to work...it doesn't sound like you have a fan or overheating issue... Although I only see one FAN replacement part number per Samsung (BP31-00018A), i'm pretty confident there should be TWO fans in your set. One close to the lamp/ballast combo and another buried deep inside the set. It is possible the other fan is not functioning if you are getting that error code, but it's still highly suspect.

Buy a new original lamp (made by Philips) and put that in. Don't throw again your old lamp as it's still good in an emergency situation. These lamps can be stored indefinitely, so no worries about shelf life. I think the new lamp should solve your problems. If not, give us your feedback

ovadoggvo · Post by **ovadoggvo** » Thu Mar 19, 2009 10:53 pm

boblasek,
Send me a link... I can't don't see what part your are referring to.

We can go from there.

ovadoggvo · Post by **ovadoggvo** » Thu Mar 19, 2009 10:59 pm

Jauxter,
Your fan may be intermittently fail.. You can see if D-M has a similar fan here:

http://www.discount-merchant.com/Search ... Search.y=0

Check their high resolution images to see if the fan specs and connector match your needs.

Another common issue is temperature sensor... A failing temperature sensor may cause the intermittent on/off issues as well.

3rd likely possibility is the board that the fan plugs into... I'm assuming on your set that the problem is FAN #2 or the fan that cools the lamp.

Let us know how it goes!

preludedez · Post by **preludedez** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 1:00 am

ovadoggvo

Hello again. I wanted to ask if the part for the HLN437W digital board is the same for HL-N5067W? I dont seem to get one on the merchant site for mine. Thanks

TNTExplosives · Post by **TNTExplosives** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 1:10 am

Hey guys...I got a new lamp but my DLP is still dark or dim after replacing the bulb...what gives?

TNTExplosives · Post by **TNTExplosives** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 1:11 am

Maybe I got a cheap lamp? Should I go with Samsung direct on a BP96-01073A cage?

HaQKR81 · Post by **HaQKR81** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 1:13 am

Looks like this is the place to ask some questions!!!

I've got a gray picture on my Sammy DLP RPTV and it sounds like the color wheel is making some noise, has anyone heard anything about this?

PPeterson · Post by **PPeterson** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 1:19 am

Ovadoggvo,

If my DLP is making a loud noise, is that the fan or the color wheel or how do I know what it is?

ovadoggvo · Post by **ovadoggvo** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 4:02 am

preludedez,
There is a slight possibility although I show that the 507W and the 437W is the same, I'm not sure about the 5067W. I would check those high resolution photos to see if it matches up. I know they had some for your model, but unfortunately 5067W is one of the most commonly sold TV's from Samsung's DLP line, so whatever they have, they will sell out of it.

Here is what I recommend for you:
http://www.discount-merchant.com/We-pro ... amsung.htm

This is pretty much the DMD board and optical block. You can use your own color wheel that you have in your TV. It is $40 more than the bare DMD but you get the light tunnel to go with it... another common failing part on the 5067W model that causes a shadow affect on one side of the TV. It may come in handy in the future.

Let us know how it goes!

ovadoggvo · Post by **ovadoggvo** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 4:08 am

TNTExplosives,
Did you buy a Philips lamp? Be careful with those guys on ebay selling "OSRAM/PHILIPS" lamps... OSRAM IS NOT THE SAME AS PHIILIPS! And neither is "OEM Compatible".

Buy Philips and buy from an authorized distributor. You never know what you are gonna get with the other guys. There are some refurbished lamps out there being sold by companies like AdvancedLamps... These are REFURBS.. They use the Philips reflector but the actual burner (the important part) is made in china. And the most important part is lining up and centering the burner. Some guy from a little warehouse can't align these burners 3-dimentionally like Philips can using there multi-million dollar machinery. BE CAREFUL!

If you did buy a Philips from bulb.. and it's still dim, I would replace your ballast. WEAK ballasts are very common with some model Samsung DLP's. This means the ballast is not bad, but it doesn't put out enough power to the lamp to keep it on at full luminosity. This will damage the lamp in the long run as well and eventually your ballast will give.

I would invest in a new ballast if you already bought a Philips lamp from a reliable place.

LEt us know how it goes!

ovadoggvo · Post by **ovadoggvo** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 4:10 am

HaQKR81,
Your color wheel is most likely the issue. What is your model number?

A great guide is available at http://guides.fixyourdlp.com

It shows you how to change the color wheel and there is another one for the ballast. Check it out, if it's something you feel like you can do... Do it! It's pretty simple... Much easier than opening up an old heavy CRT TV.

ovadoggvo · Post by **ovadoggvo** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 4:15 am

PPeterson,
If the noise is a loud shreiking noise or scratching noise, most likely your color wheel is bad. The reason the color wheel fails more often than any fan within the TV set is because the heat from the lamp is shining right onto it. Heat causes these parts to fail as does the constant on/off every day.

I have posted the link above which shows how to get to the color wheel... Once you are there, spin it with your fingers to see if it spins freely. If there is any friction or noise, you will need to replace it. If it makes a noise while you spin it at 30 rpm by hand, imagine the noise it will make when you spin it at 3000-5000 rpm inside your TV!

WesternDigital · Post by **WesternDigital** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 7:12 am

ovadoggvo,

Are you the same person answering all the questions on the ecoustic forums? How do you get enough time in the day do to all this?? You must type like 100 words a minute!

boblasek · Post by **boblasek** » Sun Mar 22, 2009 4:37 am

http://www.discount-merchant.com/We-pro ... amsung.htm

http://www.discount-merchant.com/We-pro ... amsung.htm

these are just two boards i found but none say what tv it is for.

ovadoggvo · Post by **ovadoggvo** » Tue Mar 24, 2009 5:08 am

WesternDigital,
I try my best to get to everyone on these forums. I try to keep everything online and open to the public so that others can learn from these problems and their solutions.

I actually have a full time job and I assure you that this isn't it! I'm just here to help.

ovadoggvo · Post by **ovadoggvo** » Tue Mar 24, 2009 5:12 am

boblasek,
That board is for a HLP5063W. It won't work for your 43" HLR series. Keep your eyes open, they seem to update their site often. I will do the same!

boblasek · Post by **boblasek** » Wed Mar 25, 2009 4:57 am

I actually purchased an entire light engine assembly from them for around $300 shipped over night. I dont know why its taking so long though. I i corrected myself about my tv, Its an HLR4667-WAX. so its a 46"

ovadoggvo · Post by **ovadoggvo** » Wed Mar 25, 2009 6:32 am

nice deal... I wish you luck. I'm sure you will get it soon.

Let us know how it goes.

mikeb · Post by **mikeb** » Sat Mar 28, 2009 9:07 pm

ovadoggvo: I followed you over to this new site for your help!!!
please check out the other site for my latest posts so i can get your opinion. i am really close to finally getting this thing working. it seems my analog board is now shot, but i am concerned on the misalignment of the picture with my old dmd and light engine assembly.

ovadoggvo · Post by **ovadoggvo** » Mon Mar 30, 2009 6:31 am

Mike b.,
I'll check it out tonight... I'm here to help!

Drew · Post by **Drew** » Mon Apr 06, 2009 6:36 pm

Ovadoggvo, HLR5067W, I tried all you have told me to do,1. I tried all
other inputs and it stayed with the green lines.2.I tried with all the
components and no change.3. I just hooked up my Laptop and the Picture
was perfect as a monitor. So what do you think I should try first the
analog board? I also tried on the service menu running a test on
DDP1011 and DNIe and it went through all the colors and patterns like
it say's it should so I guess it passed

Drew · Post by **Drew** » Mon Apr 06, 2009 6:38 pm

Ovadoggvo, HLR5067W, I tried all you have told me to do,1. I tried all
other inputs and it stayed with the green lines.2.I tried with all the
components and no change.3. I just hooked up my Laptop and the Picture
was perfect as a monitor. So what do you think I should try first the
analog board? I also tried on the service menu running a test on
DDP1011 and DNIe and it went through all the colors and patterns like
it say's it should so I guess it passed